A Good Solar Power Battery Charger
February 17, 2012, Submitted by: KenThis solar powered battery charger, Solar 11-in-1 Battery Charger, looks to be a great preparedness item to have for all typical consumer-size batteries. I have two solar chargers that look nearly identical to this one (except for the built-in meter gauge) which I purchased years ago. They are still working perfectly and I have used them countless times. Being able to charge batteries from solar energy for your flashlights, AM/FM/Shortwave radio, your emergency weather-alert radio, or your walkie-talkies or most any other communication device, is ‘insurance’ that you will be a step ahead of the rest during black-out.
For some time I have been interested in solar power, solar energy, including large and small solar power systems as well as solar cooking and solar cookers. When I came across this small battery charger, I liked the fact that it includes a meter-gauge, whereas the similar units that I currently own do not have a built-in gauge. It is nice reassurance to see the meter-reading of the energy being charged, and helps to optimize that angle facing towards the sun.
Battery chargers like this one require ‘rechargeable’ batteries of course. NiMH (Nickel-Metal-Hydride) batteries are economical and very good for rechargeable. Here are some of the latest technology NiMH rechargeable batteries:
AA NiMH Pre-Charged Rechargeable Batteries
AAA NiMH Pre-Charged Rechargeable Batteries
C Size NiMH Rechargeable Batteries
D Size NiMH Rechargeable Batteries
Solar battery charger product information:
C.Crane Universal Solar 11-in-One Battery Charger with Meter – This high powered solar charger charges two Rechargeable Batteries of the same type and size (D, C, AA, AAA). It puts out about 150ma and about 5 volts. All of the other solar battery chargers we tested were unsuitable because their voltage was too low.
The solar panel is incorporated into the hinged cover which can be angled for maximum sun exposure. Its in-built meter shows you the following conditions: -The strength of the sun -The strength of the current out-put from the solar panel -The time required to fully charge the different types of batteries.
This battery charger incorporates a built-in blocking diode to prevent reverse flow of electricity from charged batteries during storage. This charger is an ideal gadget for camping, fishing, boating, and picnics.
“D,” “C,” “AA,” and “AAA” size batteries. Batteries D-Size (UM-1) 1500mA 5.6×16.4×66.2mm 600mA C-Size (UM-2) 1000mA 5.6×16.4×66.2mm 720mA AA-Size (UM-3) 500mA 6.1x17x67mm 650mA AAA-Size(UM4) 180mA 7.8×16.4xx66.5mm 850mA 8.3x17x67mm 900mA 10.5x17x67mm 1200mA 10.7x17x67mm 1750mA
The charger highlighted here is cheap insurance to keep your radios, flashlights and other consumer devices running. Some portable radios have built-in solar chargers, most of which are fairly poor quality chargers, while most flashlights do not. So, especially for keeping a charged flashlight at the ready, I would not be caught without a solar battery charger on hand.
I wrote an article, Off-Grid Charging System, AA,AAA,C,D,9v, which illustrates another method of solar charging, albeit a bit more expensive – but powerful.
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Alternative Energy Battery Type 101
November 7, 2011, Submitted by: KenPractically all batteries used in alternative energy solar power backup systems are Lead-Acid type batteries. Even after over a century of use, they still offer the best price to power ratio.
ALL of the batteries commonly used in deep cycle applications are Lead-Acid. This includes the standard flooded (wet) batteries, gelled, and AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat). They all use the same chemistry, although the actual construction of the plates etc varies.
The lifespan of a deep cycle battery will vary considerably with how it is used, how it is maintained and charged, temperature, and other factors.
These are some typical expectations for batteries if used in deep cycle service.
Type of battery: Expected battery life in ‘deep-cycle’ mode
Starting: 3-12 months
Marine: 1-6 years
Golf cart: 2-7 years
Gelled deep cycle: 2-5 years
AGM deep cycle: 4-7 years
Starting batteries are commonly used to start and run engines. Engine starters need a very large starting current for a very short time. Starting batteries have a large number of thin plates for maximum surface area. The plates are composed of a Lead “sponge”, similar in appearance to a very fine foam sponge. This gives a very large surface area, but if deep cycled, this sponge will quickly be consumed and fall to the bottom of the cells. Automotive batteries will generally fail after 30-150 deep cycles if deep cycled, while they may last for thousands of cycles in normal starting use (2-5% discharge).
Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are SOLID Lead plates – not sponge. This gives less surface area, thus less “instant” power like starting batteries need. Although these an be cycled down to 20% charge, the best lifespan vs cost method is to keep the average cycle at about 50% discharge.
Golf cart batteries are quite popular for small systems and RV’s. The problem is that “golf cart” refers to a size of battery (commonly called GC-2, or T-105), not the type or construction – so the quality and construction of a golf car battery can vary considerably – ranging from the cheap off brand with thin plates up the true deep cycle brands, such as Crown, Deka, Trojan, etc. In general, you get what you pay for.
Marine batteries are usually a “hybrid”, and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in starting batteries. It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a “marine” battery, but most are a hybrid.
Gelled deep cycle batteries, or “Gel Cells” contain acid that has been “gelled” by the addition of Silica Gel, turning the acid into a solid mass that looks like gooey Jell-O. The advantage of these batteries is that it is impossible to spill acid even if they are broken. However, there are several disadvantages (must be charged at a slower rate and lower voltage to prevent permanent damage, In hot climates, water loss can be enough over 2-4 years to cause premature battery failure).
AGM, or Absorbed Glass Mat deep cycle batteries have all the advantages (and then some) of gelled, with none of the disadvantages, and they can take much more abuse. Since all the acid is contained in the glass mats, they cannot spill, even if broken. This also means that since they are non-hazardous, the shipping costs are lower. In addition, since there is no liquid to freeze and expand, they are practically immune from freezing damage. Nearly all AGM batteries are “recombinant” – what that means is that the Oxygen and Hydrogen recombine INSIDE the battery. AGM’s will cost 2 to 3 times as much as flooded batteries of the same capacity. In many installations, where the batteries are set in an area where you don’t have to worry about fumes or leakage, a standard or industrial deep cycle is a better economic choice.
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How Does Solar Power Work?
October 22, 2011, Submitted by: KenSolar Energy: Keeping it simple
The Earth constantly basks in the Sun and is absorbing enough energy to satisfy the world’s power needs many times over.
So how do we turn the Sun’s energy into electricity? Well, the light from the sun contains energy. These particles of energy are called ‘photons’. These photons are created deep in the Sun by the fusion of atoms, and once they reach the sun’s surface, they shoot out in all directions into space. They take about 8 minutes to reach us here on Earth. You can feel them as they warm you when you stand in the sunlight.
When sunlight hits an object, that energy generally turns into heat. However, when sunlight hits certain materials, the energy turns into a flow of electricity instead. It’s kind of like turning on a water hose – imagine that the water in the hose is the flow of electricity.
Crystals made out of silicon will produce an electrical current (like the water flow in a hose) when exposed to sunlight. What happens is, the electrons that are in the silicon begin to ‘move’ when struck by light (instead of just staying mostly in place). Since the electrons move, we can harness that flow and direct it to useful things such as being converted to the energy we use in our homes, or perhaps to charge a bank of batteries.
In slightly more detail, a silicon atom contains electrons spinning around it’s nucleus. In a silicon crystal (of many silicon atoms), the bonds between the silicon atoms are made of electrons that are shared between all of the atoms of the crystal itself. When the light gets absorbed, one of the electrons that is in one of the bonds gets ‘excited’ up to a higher energy level and can move around more freely than when it was bound. That electron can then move around the crystal freely, and we can get a current. This is multiplied many times over since the crystals are made up of many atoms.
The Silicon Atom
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The silicon atom has three shells (the three ellipses around the nucleus). As silicon atoms come close to one another they connect, latching onto the electrons in the outer shell of other atoms to form a silicon crystal.
Newer materials than silicon use smaller and cheaper crystals, such as copper-indium-gallium-selenide, that can be shaped into flexible films. One drawback though is this ‘thin-film’ solar technology is not as good as silicon at turning light into electricity.
Solar panels are made from these silicon semiconductor materials (and the newer thin-film materials). Solar panels come in a variety of sizes and electrical capabilities. This aids in the design of a wide variety of purposes and provides the flexibility to customize most any energy system.
Power from the Sun: A Practical Guide to Solar Electricity
Here is an example of a small solar panel
Instapark® 5W Mono-crystalline Solar Panel with 12V Solar Charge Controller
Here is an example of a large solar panel
Grape Solar CS-P-270-DJ 270 Watt Polycrystalline PV Solar Panel
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A Basic Solar Power System Description and Diagram
October 12, 2011, Submitted by: KenSolar power systems vary widely in their power producing capacities, and the cost of implementation is directly proportional to that capacity.
Solar energy is not cheap. In fact, one could argue that from a cost savings point of view it is not very practical at all because it typically will take many, many years to reach the break-even point when considering the cost of your local utility electricity… I’m talking roughly 5 to 15 years in many instances depending on your usage.
However, despite the cost of solar power systems, for many folks it is a worthwhile investment for reasons other than saving money on your utility bill. If your property is far from the nearest road, it may actually cost less to have solar power than to pay to run electricity to your property. If you have an RV, or boat, solar power is a great way to have electricity present.
For many, simply having a very basic solar power system is reassurance that they will have some amount of limited power at the ready, just in case…
Without going into great detail, I thought that I would illustrate a very simple and basic system that could be assembled to provide enough power to operate some lights, a TV, a computer, enough to recharge power tools or other items… a 800 watt system (with caveats).
(1) Solar Panel (180 watt with MC4 connectors)
(1) Battery Charge Controller (15 amp, 225 watt – 12V)
(1) Battery (12 V, Sealed AGM, 55 AH)
(1) Power Inverter (12 VDC to 120 AC, 800 watt)
(2) Battery Cable Kit (4-AWG)
(1) Solar Array Cable (50 feet, MC4 ends – cut it in half)
With the components listed in the basic system above, while the sun is shining you could continuously run (consume) up to about 140 watts of power, or up to 800 watts for about half an hour if the battery is fully charged. Even when it’s cloudy, you will probably still have access to about 100 watts continuous.
When it is dark, and since we’ve included a battery in the system, you will have access to about 500 watts for one hour (or 100 watts for 5 hours, or 50 watts for 10 hours, etc.). The amount of available energy after dark assumes a maximum allowed 80% battery discharge (never go below 20% battery capacity!), and assumes we’re using the particular battery listed above (55 Amp hour, 12 volt), and assumes 5 hours per day of charging sunlight.
Note that if you get two identical batteries and wire them in parallel, you will double your night time capacity, provided that they get fully charged during the day time.
The price tag of the very-basic system above is nearly a thousand dollars, and as you can see, it’s not cheap to achieve the energy capacity listed in this example. If we assume that your local utility company charges say, 20 cents per kilowatt hour (per thousand watts of consumption in an hour), you would not break-even with the price until you’ve consumed 4,755 kilowatt hours (that’s 4 million and 755 thousand watts of power). That’s the same as running 100 watts of ‘something’ for 47,550 hours straight (or a bit more than 5 years).
I’m not trying to discourage you by any means! I’m just pointing out the facts. Again, there are lots of reasons to have solar energy systems other than for offsetting the cost of local electricity! Like… preparedness!
Here’s a sketch of how the very basic system that I’ve listed above, would be connected together.
A statement of caution… don’t attempt building your own solar energy system unless you have a basic understanding of what you’re doing. Maybe you know a friend who knows basic electricity… For example, if you don’t know what ‘ohms law’ is, then you probably shouldn’t be putting one of these together yourself. Designing the proper package involves a full understanding of power equations (P=IE), conversions, and other basic electronic understanding.
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This Post comes to you via Solar Power
May 19, 2011, Submitted by: KenA real world example as to a benefit of having some sort of solar power system, is coming to you by way of this post.
As I was going through my morning routine of updating Modern Survival Blog and just as I was about to contemplate the next post, the power went out in the house, followed by that extraordinary silence while all appliances, fans, etc… cease to run.
I typically use my laptop for my work while the desktop PC’s churn away at other tasks. The only thing that was still running in the office was my laptop (although the internet connection vanished). Even though I knew I had several hours of laptop battery reserve, I shut it down in order to first obtain some information about the extent of the outage.
I went outside, checked the electrical main power meter (one of those new digital meters), and saw that the LCD display was blank. Next, wondering if the ‘big one’ hit – perhaps a CME or X-10 flare from the sun, or maybe the EMP was finally detonated 200 miles above in the atmosphere… turned on the portable AM/FM Shortwave Radio to discover all stations were up and running.
OK, just a local power outage. No need to head for the hills
We have had a small size off-the-grid solar power system for several years now, one which generates about 1.2 kilowatts from 6 panels mounted on top of our shed out back, and simply augments our power from the grid. The panels feed into a ‘Outback’ charge controller which in turn keeps a bank of heavy duty batteries filled with energy – which feeds through an 3.6 kW ‘Outback’ inverter (enough for an upgrade with more panels) and delivers enough 24 hour power to run some appliances, lights, or whatever we need – so long as I monitor the load.
In any event, not wanting to waste the morning and delay further updates on M.S.B., all I had to do was run an extension cord from the nearest solar powered circuit over to the office. I plugged it in to main Power Conditioner that I use to feed the computers and internet stack (cable, routers, internet phone, etc…), and Voila! I’m up and running!
So the lesson is, despite the fact that solar systems are not cheap (depending of course on how elaborate and powerful you design it), the assurance of backup energy when you need it could be considered invaluable at times.
In this example, after having checked online at my power company provider website (PG&E), I see that a decent chunk of the town seems to be without power. Who knows how long it will be out… but my refrigerators, freezers, and essential items are still up and running.
Nice…
Update: 15 hours later, dark now in the neighborhood, still without power – 2 transformers blew out nearby (been lots of that in the news lately). Battery Bank holding up – lit some candles to fit in with the neighbors homes – don’t want to stand out like a sore thumb while our neighbors freezers full of food melt… ![]()

I wonder if they’re running low on transformers. It took quite a long time to get the two that they needed. Oh well… good thing for off-the-grid power sources.
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