The Best Seeds To Have For Survival Preparedness

“When looking for long term survival seeds, you will need to grow carbohydrates from starchy vegetables, such as Winter squash and pumpkins, and protein from dry beans and grain. No other grain yields as well, and is as easy to harvest and grow without machinery as corn.”
-SeedForSecurity (quote)

When looking at the yield of calories per pound, some of the vegetables that come out on top are…

– Potatoes (~ 340 calories /lb.)
– Corn (~ 340 calories /lb.)
– Peas (~ 330 calories /lb.)
– Acorn squash (~ 220 calories /lb.)

Note: Dry beans such as Pinto or Navy beans (require long warm summers) are very high in calories (~ 570 calories /lb.). Ordinary green beans contain about 140 calories /lb.

Note: Yams contain more calories than ordinary potatoes (~ 460 calories /lb.) however grow best in hot climates.

Related: Garden Vegetable Calories

We need foods which provide the energy to keep us going!

This seed kit may be of interest:

Other considerations for seeds purposed towards survival and preparedness include:

Grains, starchy vegetables and fruit all provide calories.

Corn grown as a grain is my first choice. Not only is it very high in carbohydrates, it yields better than the small grains like wheat. Corn can also be grown and harvested with simple hand tools.

Starchy vegetables include root crops such as beets and winter squash and pumpkins. Fruit tastes sweet because of the sugar, but is not as high in carbohydrates as it seems. Small fruits like berries and grapes can be established in a few years, but trees will take much longer. If you have a place to plant them, do it THIS year.

There are three general categories of food nutrition. Vitamins, Protein and Carbohydrates.

While the grocery store shelves are full, that is the order we are usually looking for. However, when foods are scarce, the order is reversed. Getting enough calories becomes the most important goal.

No matter what happens, we all need to eat. Growing our own food and storing it will save us money. If we don’t have a place to grow food now, we still should have the tools, seeds and knowledge. A well stocked pantry should include not only food, but the means to produce and preserve it as well.

I recommend that everyone should buy and store whole grains to eat, such as rice, wheat and oats. Even if you won’t be growing all these grains in the future, they can save you a lot of money buying them in bulk. Stored grains can feed you while you get your garden up to the size you will need.

Grains keep best and contain the most nutrition when ‘whole’. Rice is an exception, removing the hull on brown rice extends storage life. You will need a grain mill to make flour, and to learn how to cook foods you like from the grains you choose. You can and should grow some of your own grains at home too.

Choosing A Hand Grain Mill
An Electric Mill

Fresh meat fish and eggs are widely available now, but would be very scarce and expensive without refrigeration. Freshly caught or butchered foods may become an occasional luxury at best. Beans will eventually become our major source for protein. They are not hard to grow or store in the fully mature dry stage.

I would recommend stocking up on a quantity of seeds (which should last several years). If you have not planted a garden before, I highly recommend that you start now. It takes a number of growing seasons to figure things out and every year that you wait is another year lost…

My primary requirements for “survival” seeds are plants that produce CALORIES. That means especially potatoes and corn.

Tip: For potatoes, I save a number of them from the previous season because as they age they will grow green shoots, and you can use these potatoes to plant next spring. Supply yourself with an inventory of seeds including corn and beans.

Note: Some of the statements above are referenced from (not presently an advertiser with us – just saying).


What are your thoughts regarding seeds for survival and preparedness?

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  1. I completely agree with the info you presented here Ken. I have a couple of relevant tips I would like to share;

    While corn is probably the easiest and most productive grain to grow for the home gardener, it still has a relatively low yield for the amount of space required. One way to really boost productivity while growing corn is to grow a pole bean variety up the corn stalks ‘three sisters’ style. It works great with cowpeas along the gulf coast.

    Also, even though vitamins and minerals will be only a small concern in a worst case scenario, I find that Kale produces a TON of nutrient dense greens from a small space. While you can eat the leaves of broccoli and other brassicas, the darker green leaves of kale are more nutritious, more palatable, and easier to cook from my experience.

    Thank you for what you do!

    1. Just do not plant zucchini in among the corn as the squash part of the three sisters. Way too big and hungry. It’ll strip all the nutrients away from the corn. You’ll get a great zucchini harvest, but nothing else.

    2. Glad you brought up Kale! Kale is TOPS for a home-grown, nutrient dense vegetable. With all of the uses of Kale and Kale seeds, I consider Kale to be the most important ‘green’ crop available in my area. With a bit of protection here in Zone 6, we can keep our Fall crop going through the Winter. Kale, like most cool weather crops, doesn’t actually grow in Winter tunnels but it is kept alive and ‘fresh’ so it can be picked just before it’s time to prepare it for a meal. In very early Spring, our Wintered-over Kale begins producing again and will see us through until other Spring greens come in.

      Since we save our seeds, we allow our Wintered-over Kale to go to seed. We don’t allow the entire Kale patch to do that because we’d be harvesting seed pods and the seeds that we’d need to open our own seed store! However — if times became extreme, believe me — we’d allow all of the Kale to bolt to seed. Then we’d have an abundance of seeds for sprouting for ourselves and our green-munching critters.

  2. Potatoes, sweet corn, & beans. Yes, its the backbone of my garden and the sweet thing about it is, all the seeds can be saved for next year.. I would have to add tomatoes, turnips, and cabbage. Most all other crops are additives to the mix. Beets, carrots, radishes, garlic, onions, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, & cucumbers. There is a bunch more that are desirable, depending on your location and ethnic background. Although, we don’t raise the amount of vegetables we did years ago, we still raise the list.

  3. I consider heirloom bean and pea seeds the most important for me at my location. I have lots and lots of rice, pasta, and freeze-dried corn stored but those are all incomplete protein. Last year I tried container corn, and not only did it not provide much food compared to other things I could have grown, but the root system completely engulfed my large containers. When I pull out the roots, there will be little soil left, which will have to be replaced. Even if I had planted in the ground instead of containers, I would still have had to deal with the roots. I don’t have a rototiller and would not be capable of doing that work myself, anyway.

    Tomatoes and peppers can’t be started from seed this far north. I tried starting them indoors, but my cats ate them.

    So for me, beans, peas, potatoes, carrots, turnips, spinach, cucumbers, and fast-growing squash are what I will rely on. This year I am trying beets and broccoli for the first time. Plus I have perennials such as blueberries, raspberries, and rhubarb. This year I will be planting 25 cherry tries and at least one apple tree on my new lot. I will continue to buy seedlings such as peppers and tomatoes as long as the nurseries are open.

    1. For first stage nursery, get the flat cake trays that the bakeries use. They hold enough water and they have a cover. Timing is the important thing. You can plant outside once a plant has its secondary leaves, which should be before they outgrow the primary nursery (particularly if you can find the tall cake trays, that round cakes come in). So if you time your planting correctly your plants can go almost straight from their little nursery to outdoors. Cats can’t eat them that way.

      Once they go outside, cover with milk bottles with the bottoms cut off to protect them from birds and insects. Spread crushed up eggshells around the base to protect them from slugs and snails. If you have cutworms in your area use a third of a toilet paper roll around the rootball and buried about an inch below the surface.

      1. That is exactly what I do except the protection is for the wind and sun. We have an enclosed garden with chicken wire and raised to protect from pocket gophers. I also use walls of water and have for the past 14 years for tomatoes, peppers and cantaloupes.

      2. Lauren and Old Lady,

        Those are good ideas. I will try, though it may be too late this year. I am saving your replies to a Word document so I can see read them again next February.

    2. I don’t have Cherry trees (on the list for this year) but Apples, Pears and peaches need a 2nd variety to cross pollinate. I have 4 different varieties of Apple trees and 2 varieties each of pears and peaches (had damson plums, self pollinating, but the deer ate them so I’m looking to add plums again but can’t find Damson’s locally so I’ll probably need 2 varieties there too…)

      I use butte nut squash and pumpkins in my 3 sisters mix.


      1. On no!

        All the cherry trees I ordered are Nanking Cherries. The extension center didn’t mention cross pollination. I had considered planting two varieties of apples. Maybe I need a couple more cherries too.

        1. DaisyK

          I have read several times (no idea if it is so) that to have the best cherries and the best cherry production,
          you should have at least two varieties of
          Plum trees,

          and to have the best Plum production you should have at least two varieties of cherry trees.

          seem to recall that they boost each other somehow.

          1. Anon

            I am taking a friend to Cody on Tuesday for her appointment. We plan to visit Northern Gardens while we are there. I will ask them lots of questions.

  4. I agree that the 4 listed plants are an excellent choice. I have a AG degree so if there is one additional item that you should stock up on… I recommend getting a truck load of compost or manure. 20 yards. You can then tarp it (keeps the weeds down) and keep it for a longtime. Most soils will need to be amended over time to keep production levels up.

    I would also add cover crop seeds to your list like alfalfa and Sun Flowers (both Nitrogen fixing plants). This helps to reintroduce Nitrogen and organic matter back into your soils.
    Potato crops will need to be rotated over 1-2 cycles to prevent disease and low yields. Planting Sun Flowers will help maintain your soil’s health and adding / tilling in the stockpile of manure and compost into your soils will be vital to long term crop production.

    1. Almost everything needs to be rotated to break disease and pest cycles, in lots of cases its also better to have a few smaller garden plots that are separated, just an observance i have made from growing stuff, its harder to save seed in some cases if you only have one big garden plot, but when it is broken up and separated by planted areas that also have flowering plants and trees or hedgerows it tends to make separation easier and rotations as well as pest control. With the pest control it is enhanced because you give habitat for beneficial insects close by and interspersed within your growing areas, separation can also make it easier to isolate soil bourne diseases and pest like nematodes.

  5. This year I’m doing dry beans in a large portion of my expanded garden. I have six varieties I’m going to try, four bush and two vining.

    Potatoes are tricky because the soil is so varied–potatoes that do well in one area don’t produce at all in another. So I’m working on developing a variety that will work here. Over several generations I’m hoping I’ll get good adaptation.

    I’m trying to incorporate the three sisters to give the corn what it needs, but last year was an abysmal failure. I planted zucchini as the “squash” part of the three sisters and it sucked up everything the corn needed. The zucchini was great, though. Most of the corn was less than three feet high and didn’t pollinate. So this year I’m going to let the pumpkins spread into the corn but plant them at least ten feet away.

    1. Yeah, I can’t grow zucchini or crookneck’s due to squash vine borer. Technically I could grow them, but it isn’t worth the hassle. I’ve found a squash variety called ‘Tatume’ that works well with the three sisters method and is resistant to SVB.

  6. Those are the seeds that grow the best in my area. We add tomatoes which we start early because of our 3 to 4 month growing season. All our seeds are heirloom so even if we take a year off several things come up buy themselves. We were going to take this year off and only water the perennials but we have lettuce, carrots, beans, a few potatoes, beets and turnips coming up. Surprises are good!

  7. Just got my seed potatoes from Johnnys yesterday, trying to figure the best way to do them

    1. plant the potatoes in an area where you can keep adding dirt on top of them as they grow. I use a large lick tub (for cows) and plant them about 1/4 of the way up. Then as they grow I add dirt on top. When the plant reaches the top I just let them grow until they are done blooming and start to wither then I pull the potatoes.

  8. I grow peas which are on the list for best starches, calories, and protein and is often used to boost the proteins in dog food, but they take work. I find they grow better for me where I live than squash. In finding the most calories per vegetable and legumes, here is what I found:

    A cup of boiled lima beans contains 217 calories.
    A cup of boiled black beans contains 240 calories.
    A cup of boiled soybeans contains 298 calories.
    A cup of corn has about 160 calories.
    A cup of boiled potatoes comes in at 136 calories.
    A cup of green peas comes in at 124 calories
    A cup of sweet potatoes has about 114 calories.
    A cup of parsnips contains 100 calories.
    A cup of butternut winter squash has 63 calories.
    A cup of chopped carrots contains 53 calories

    There are higher calories in nuts and peanuts if that is what you grow that have carbs and protein, but are better in fat calories for you skinny waifs.

    I an surrounded with wild hazelnut bushes that give me about 773 calories per cup, crushed. They take only a few years from seed to produce, but are labor intensive to get the nuts out. Worth the work for survival food and their calories.

  9. As resident Old-Fart here I reserve the right to add that a Garden, to me at least, is more than just a way to grow food. And yes growing food is a MUST if/when TSHTF, but for now till then, I ‘enjoy’ my Garden immensely. The time I spend working the Garden is now only good for the Deep Pantry, figuring 100+ pints/quarts of canned goods, and a LOT of dried/cold packed/ root cellar/freezer, but there is something about working the soil, getting the hands back to nature, watching the Raccoons eat the Corn… HAHAHA.

    I have a rotating seed bank I use, I don’t keep seeds more than 2 years, but rotate what I do use, and yes I do 90% of my own ‘starts’. Like a few here I have a short growing season so timing is everything, so even this weekend I’m putting 20 tomatoes out and will be covering them each night with free Pickle Buckets, to get a head start…. Also LOT’s/all root crops are going into the ground.

    I don’t do Corn, takes too much room, Beans are very cheap from the Mill up the road 20 miles and can be stored for decades, Wheat; the same. I will be trying Potatoes this year after reading all the success y-all have had.

    What I do is, each year after I finish planting all my seeds, I take a new inventory of what I used, what I had, and replenish the difference plus a few more. I have moved 90% to all Heirloom seeds, if needed I can ‘keep’ seeds, and will be trying that this year, never too old to learn huh?

    Now, what’s really fun….. Let those volunteers grow, and see what that happen to be…. HAHAHAHA
    OHHHHH and those little rabbit critters that invade……… yummmm pure protein.

    Happy Gardening everyone

    1. I agree 100%. Working the garden is therapeutic in a way… even pulling the damn weeds, well, maybe not the weeds so much ;)

    2. For myself as well NRP, and Ken, therapeutic, i think my favorite thing is just puttering on the farm, could do that and nothing else and be totally happy. Been planting cover crops, nothing quite like watching that thick lush carpet fill in a field. Watching a half acre of pollinator mix start blooming.
      I love life when my most important decision of the day is what to plant!

  10. I tried planting corn and beans together a few years ago and it didn’t work for me. The beans took over and choked out the corn. I have a very small spot for a garden so I know I crowd things a bit, but I compost to keep my soil in good condition. The main things I plant are tomatoes, potatoes, squash, onions, carrots, cabbage, peppers, corn and green beans. I bought some heirloom tomatoes from the boy scouts, don’t know what they are, but I have been saving the seed and growing them for several years. I have tomatoes and peppers that I started in the house that are ready to go as soon as I can get my garden spot tilled up.

  11. I like winter wheat. It can be grown over winter and spring when there’s plenty of garden space and few pests. It doesn’t have to be ground; it can be sprouted in three days and cooked (boiled) in 20-30 minutes. Peas beans, and other legumes can be sprouted and cooked with the wheat for even more nutrition. It can be stored for years. One word of warning about corn: coons!

  12. Our main crops are pole beans, bush beans, potatoes , tomatoes and squash . A lot of our diet is tomatoes,fresh and canned ,pole beans for canning and fresh, bush beans for dry beans and potatoes for fresh and storage and squash for storage . We try to use only heirloom seeds so that we can save our seeds . We try and not keep seeds too long as they lose the ability to germinate over time , 3-5 years tops.
    We have friends with livestock and we collect free manure and we have a ” manure bank” for compost since we have no livestock . We also compost all we can, grass clippings, household scraps ,etc. Crop rotation is something else we practice as well.
    Happy gardening.

  13. My seeds arrived from Territorial Seed Co. while I was on my varmint hunting trip. In the coming weeks, I will be preparing garden beds, containers and pots ready to plant. This year, I have lots of squash and cherry tomato seeds and I am watching for herb seeds for the strawberry pot. (thyme, oregano, basil and chives)

    My faithful dawg will be helping me work i the back yard as usual. (the back yard is her yard after all – I am simply there to mow the grass and tend to the plants.) Within my yard, I am trying to maintain a chemical free yard in order to draw in the beneficial insects and birds. I am surrounded by neighbors that use lots of Scotts lawn products. Their lawns are beautiful compared to mine. My yard is one of the places where birds flock to because of the many feeders and baths with clean water every day.

    Last year we had the invasion of the moles and gophers in my backyard. I had traps butt I ended up buying and using a lot of the smoking type gopher bombs that you light, shove down the hole and bury it to let the smoke do the work. I like using the gopher bombs because it brings out the 14 year old pyromaniac out within me. I have a mental image of the moles and gophers saying “screw you guys! We’re going home!”

    My wife says I am bad in that I even use guns and bombs within my garden…What would Martha Stewart do? Now that the town has grown up around my house, I have to scale back from eliminating gophers in my yard with a 12 gauge trap load. (we are now surrounded by soccer moms and retirees.) SO, if you hear the mild crack of a 22 short, smell a hint of sulpher in the air and hear the occasional giggle, it is me the local Japanese gardener at work in my backyard.

    1. @ CaliRefugee

      Gophers….. I’m thinking MOAB…. Poof, Gone.

      Nice thing about my place, to dry and too many rocks for Gophers…. And with raised beds most other critters stay away fairly well. What don’t, freezer meat.

      “SO, if you hear the mild crack of a 22 short, smell a hint of sulpher in the air and hear the occasional giggle, it is me the local Japanese gardener at work in my backyard.”

      HAHAHAH for some reason I got the strangest vision in my brain on that… LOLOL


  14. CaliRefugee,

    Have you ever tried carbide for your mole problem? Carbide + H2O creates acetylene gas. Acetylene gas is heavier than air, causing it to fill the tunnels. It’s deadly for moles. Just open the tunnel anywhere, deposit a couple of spoonfuls and cover (add water if soil is dry). Usually you can find carbide at welding supply stores. They may even give you a coffee can full for free as they buy it by the ton.

    1. Like this idea gonna pass on to Mr. Hate to kill the little critters but they are EVERYWHERE this year!!! Need to put out Milky Spore also. Moles love grubs.

  15. Hello Dennis and NRP: Thanks for the hints. I knew I could count on you fellows.

    Right now, the gopher bombs are available and fun. I will tuck away the hint about carbide for later use if things get weird and supply dries up. Knowledge is power.

    My wife is Scotch-Irish so I remind her she has the ultimate American status symbol of a Japanese Gardener. (1960’s post war times when the best bread was Wonder bread etc.)

    1. @ CaliRefugee

      Ok Ok, the Blog is a little slow so it’s story time. Gives Ken something to shake his head at ya know.

      My neighboring ranch had (notice I said ‘HAD’) a HUGE P-Dog problem and was working on eradicating them from the 800 acer Hay fields. What they had was basically a 6 foot 3/8” pipe that hooked to an acetylene tank via a long hose on a ATV they would ride around on, the other end of the pipe was an igniter that they could spark from the handle with a valve, wellll having a cooler of Bud Light onboard is not always a good thing. Having a few of those Bud’s and getting distracted from a neighbor BS’ing for about 5+ minutes is even a worse thing.

      What ya would do is stick the pipe into the P-Dog hole, cover the hole with a little dirt, and turn on the gas for ONE MINUTE MAX….. Than spark the igniter….

      The comment, after picking themselves off the ground, looking at a 3 foot deep, 5 food diameter hole was “Geeee, I guess 5 minutes is a little too long huh?”, Gata LOVE country Boys…. HAHAHA Now I will admit there were no P-Dogs for 100 yards in any direction, but it took a Backhoe and some quick shovel work to get that hole infilled before the Center Pivot came around again… HAHAHA

      The moral of the story, make sure to save a little extra seed (see Ken, I got back to saving seeds) to cover up the ‘OOPS’ when ya blow up your yard/Garden. :-) :-) :-)

      Eye Witness

      1. NRP and all the rest of fellow mad men ,,,, a propane weed burner works too ,turn it on but don’t light it ,blow the gas in the hole then light it off works ever time ,,,,in the garden saves a lot of tilling.

        At my old ranch I use to charge to hunt P dogs ,,,had a waiteing list of people from Portland all summer long

  16. “There are three general categories of food nutrition. Vitamins, Protein
    and Carbohydrates.”

    Well, actually, not expressed like that. When scientists speak
    they classify food under Macronutrients and Micronutrients.

    The three macronutrients are Carbohydrates, Protein and Fats and are
    expressed for example numerically as 50/30/20, where Carbs compose 50%
    of the food, Protein 30% and Fats 20% always in that order. If you
    are on a strict Akins diet it may read 10/50/40. A strict vegan may
    be 70/30/10. My question for strict dieters of any kind is always…
    are you going to eat that way for the rest of your life? That’s why
    most, or virtually all, are unsuccessful on such “diets.”

    All the smaller stuff is categorized as micronutrients and you will find
    vitamins, minerals and phytonutrients there and probably stuff we will
    discover in the future.

    Now here’s my take on “dieting” and losing weight. Forget about losing
    “weight” and tell yourself you’re aiming to lose fat. I mean, you
    don’t want to lose muscle, do you?

    Up the protein slightly and try to keep the fat somewhat low. Studies
    have shown that by doing so it was easier and not so hard to watch
    what you ate and wasn’t hungry doing so. That extra protein increased
    your metabolism by about 200 calories a day and folks were able to
    maintain their muscle mass. A little exercise didn’t harm anything.

    I consider a good breakdown of the macronutrients to lose fat slowly
    and safely is 50/30/20. And it’s a healthy way to eat. If you have
    no medical contraindications then 40/40/20 will supercharge it. Then
    when you’re goal is reached switch to 50/30/20. Easier to do because
    there is no extreme change.

    If you get the macronutrients in line the micronutrients will generally
    care of themselves without any thought. Pick your calories for the
    macronutrients carefully and you will be fine.

    My best food for this? Chili! Great to can. Good all around nutrition.

  17. I plant potatoes,winter squash,pole beans,peas,dried beans.
    Sweet potatoes and corn don’t like zone 3, so I give them a pass.
    Secondary list is rutabega, onions, brassicas. They grow good here.

  18. Have you considered the Mangle / Wurzel? Feed the leaves to livestock (or eat them young) then feed the beets to livestock or eat them if you have to. During World War 2 Germans suffered from Wurzel disease from eating nothing but Wurzels. The few that I grew were enormous. If you want volume this is the way to go.

  19. WOW!
    Love all of the info on here. GREAT EDUCATION from all.
    thank you so much for sharing what you know.
    I wasn’t planning on having a garden this year due to moving.
    But starting to change my mind & having some veggies in pots.
    I know it takes more water for pots but would still have cherry tomatoes
    for salad along with pickling cucumbers and bell pepper.
    Yard is almost 1/2 full of mint & sage has come back.
    Found out that it takes a lot of dirt for potatoes & I don’t have a lot.
    Beans & squash are easy to grow here, but butternut squash if you don’t
    get them when they are first ripe worms get in them.
    gardening is hard work but it is also satisfying, fresh veggies on table.
    I did have problems with rabbits but now dog keeps them out.

    still searching for the right home for me,
    going to get in touch with a local realtor that am going to ask to
    do assessment of house to see what it is worth.
    doing more research on homes to find out more on them before going
    to see them.

    1. I want to learn how to smoke/dry fish.
      Seen it done on some tv shows: Alaska Last Frontier
      & The last alaskans.

      What is best gun to use for small animals like rabbits.
      Think they are cute but think also might be good protein too.

      1. Sandismom,

        Not enough info on your request about “best gun” for rabbits. “Best Gun” arguments (discussions?) can fill books.

        If your plan is for one gun, with minimal training, only to be used for garden pest control, I would suggest a .22 rimfire capable of shooting short-long rifle ammunition. If you have little or no experience with firearms, a low cost single shot bolt action like the Keystone Cricket might fit your needs.

        A decent air-rifle might be a better choice if you live in a denser populated area.

        Better yet, if you have no training in firearms, get some before you buy your first gun. Local gun stores usually can point you toward low cost, sometimes free, classes.

      2. Smoking salmon isn’t as difficult as it seems. I have several “Little Chief” smokers they come with basic recipes and instructions on smoking several kinds of meats including salmon. Everyone has their favorite recipes and ways of smoking. The basic is salt, brown sugar or honey and what other spices you want to add, teriyaki, soy, ginger, garlic, cracked pepper the list goes on. I prefer smoking Silvers (Coho) but you can smoke all types of fish.
        I soak the my fish for 6 to 12 hours, air dry for about 3 or until a sheen develops on the fish and then smoke it for 3 to 6 hours, depending on the fish and what your likes are. I like a very dry jerky type of salmon some like it a little moister. It’s your taste.
        get on your computer I’m sure there are many recipes and instructions on salmon smoking.

  20. I have not had time to read all the article, or most of the comments, so, maybe this was mentioned…

    all good the info above,
    the best seeds to store,
    are ones you have a good expectation will actually grow (the plants) where you are at, or where you hope to bug out. For me, if I was to be where I am, I have the devil’s own time getting most anything to grow…So, I need to work on what does grow.

    of course, if you had bunches saved and they wouldn’t work out where you end up at, they could possibly be traded/bartered for goods/different seeds/services….

    1. I couldn’t have said it better. Here Corn, Yams and other plants cannot grow without extraordinary measures. Save the seeds and plant what will grow in your area, while my family and I love fresh sweet corn We know in a SHTF event we will not eat this. The effort to grow this far outweighs the return.

  21. Most of these ideas are good but ad a gardener with 40 years experience I recommend you have a mix of heirloom and hybrid seeds–heirlooms because they breed true and hybrids for hybrid vigor.

  22. Asparagus. A little tricky to get going, but once you do, it’s a once in a generation planting. Properly harvested and maintained, a bed of it can last upwards of 20 years. Plus, it does pretty well in cooler regions.

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