vegetable garden yields

Vegetable Garden Yields To Expect On Average Per 100′ Row

How much will I get from my vegetable garden?

If my garden rows are ‘x’ feet long (see chart below) how much yield should I expect?

If you’re trying to figure out how much yield that you might get from your vegetable garden, I found a list from LSU AgCenter.

I found the garden yield list while searching for how many ears of corn I might expect in my garden rows. I needed to figure that out first so I could estimate how many pints (or quarts) of home canning that may result.

Expected yields from a good vegetable garden will vary with seasons, care, soils, pest pressures and cultivars.

If you only have a 50-foot row of a crop, cut the posted yield in half.

If you only have a 10-foot row, then use 1/10th of the posted yield for a crop.

Note: Depending on length of season and other factors such as keeping inferior vegetables, some gardeners may surpass these average yields.

Garden Tip: I have several of these knee savers!
Thick Kneeling Pad

Expected Crop Yields per 100 feet of row

Lima Bean – Bush: 1 bushel shelled (32 lbs.)

Lima Bean – Pole: 2 bushel (32 lbs.)

Snap Bean – Bush: 1.5 bushel (30lbs.)

Snap Bean – Pole: 2 bushel (30lbs.)

Beets: 100 lbs.

Broccoli: 70 heads

Cabbage: 85 heads

Cantaloupe: 120 melons

Carrots: 150 lbs.

Cauliflower: 60 heads

Chinese Cabbage: 100 heads

Collards: 175 lbs.

Corn: 120 ears

Cucumber: 170 lbs.

Eggplants: 150 lbs.

Garlic: 350 heads

Kohlrabi: 75 lbs.

Lettuce: 100 heads

Mustard: 100 bunches

Okra: 175 lbs.( 6 bu. 30 lbs.)

Onions (dry): 220 lbs.

Peas (southern): 20 lbs. shelled

Peas (English): 40 lbs.

Pea (snow): 65 lbs.

Pepper (bell): 125 lbs.

Pepper (cubanelle): 200 lbs.

Potato, Irish: 200 lbs.

Potato, sweet: 200 lbs.

Pumpkin: 150 lbs.

Radish: 30 lbs.

Rutabaga: 90 lbs.

Shallot (green): 350 bunches

Spinach: 40 lbs.

Squash (summer): 80 lbs.

Squash (winter): 150 lbs.

Strawberries: 170 lbs.

Tomatoes: 250 lbs.

Tomatoes (cherry): 450 lbs.

Turnips: 100 bunches

Watermelons (20 lbs. each): 20 melons

My Garden Cart:
Poly Garden Dump Cart


  1. Whats that saying,
    Dont count your chickens before the eggs hatch,
    Applies to a garden too,

    1. Tell me about it! Last year for example was a semi-disaster for my garden!

      1. That’s the same thing my dad told me once when my mom mislabeled the Christmas presents. I got a box with training bras, and my sister got a swiss army knife!! LOL.😵

  2. Now this one I did not expect.
    “Tomatoes: 250 lbs.
    Tomatoes (cherry): 450 lbs.”
    Amazing difference in Mator production.
    Have to add, I do make Salsa, Juice, Sauce, and Canned Tomato Chunks from Cherry Tomatoes.
    Sweet 100’s being the best, very VERY Tasty indeed.
    FYI, just leave the skins on when using Cherry Tomatoes the roughage is good for ya. :-)

    1. I believe their tomato estimate is low. Again though, depends on factors.

      Regarding the difference with the cherry maters, they’re smaller so more weight per volume I guess. Problem with harvest though is I eat one, harvest one, eat one, harvest one… repeat.

      1. Chuckle as my Grand Mother would say Ken “SUCH a Problem”

        I can believe the cherry tomato production I give them away to the delight of many friends.

        IS there an Heirloom Cherry Tomato? Hybrid is great this year but their seeds are useless next year.

        BTW my Russian descended friends tell me the most Prized Gift they got while in the collapsed former Soviet Union was QUALITY SEEDS. Think about it friends given that Montesano is busy trying to make seeds totally their own.

        1. NH Michael;
          Yes there are several/many Heirloom Cherry Toms. Unfortunately my Favorite (Sweet 100) are not :-( :-(

          Here are a few;
          Black Plum Heirloom Cherry Tomato – (Russian, long crop of 2-inch elongated plum-shaped fruits mahogany colored with a sweet, tangy flavor. Indeterminate. 82 Days.)
          Coyote Heirloom Cherry Tomato – (A sweet, jewel-like, 1/2-inch yellow cherry, borne in an abundant crop. VERY TASTY! Indeterminate. 75 Days)
          God Love Heirloom Cherry Tomato – (Very productive, 1x 2-inch, jade-pink plum with robust tomato flavor. A beautiful salad and snacking tomato. Indeterminate. 75 Days)
          Grandpa’s Minnesota Heirloom Cherry Tomato – (Prolific heirloom. Red, 1-inch, round, cherries that have a mild sweet flavor. Indeterminate. 75 Days)
          Hawaiian Currant Heirloom Cherry Tomato – (A sweet red cherry, pea-sized currant that holds fruit on clusters until all are ripe. A very sweet and tasty treat. Indeterminate. 80 Days)
          Isis Candy Cherry Heirloom Tomato – (This tomato produces a delightful, 1-inch round, yellow with red tinge and marbling. Gold flesh. Typically a ‘cat’s eye’ star of yellow on one end of fruit. The delicious sweet taste is rich and fruity. This has been a favorite “candy” treat with kids. Indeterminate. 67 Days)
          Super Snow White Heirloom Cherry Tomato – (Delicious, 2 oz., ivory-colored tomatoes, that ripen to the size of ping pong balls. Indeterminate. 75 Days)
          Yellow Pear Heirloom Cherry Tomato – (Clusters of small bright-yellow, pear-shaped fruit. Delicious! Indeterminate. 85 Days)

        2. Thanks for the replies. More seeds for next years crops!

          As a side note be careful about planting Heirlooms near Hybrids. Your resulting seeds will not run true. Don’t ask me how I found out about that! :-)

        3. I plant Fox cherries and am trying the new atomic cherry from baker creek. They are supposed to be metallic colors. So far so good.

        4. There is also another seed co, in New Gloucester, Maine called “Pinetree”. They also sell Heirlooms. I tried their seeds for the first time this year, and they came up and are doing great. Also got a few from Burpee, and a place in Cottage Grove,Or, called “Territorial seed co.”

        5. Also try totally they have lits of variety, heirloom and hybrid.

    2. The wife and I have canned cherry tomatoes too. We just blanch then squirt out the good stuff. No cutting required for most things. It is well worth the effort for the wife’s spaghetti sauce. All from the garden and I’ve never found a better sauce. The wife prefers regular tomatoes because of all the seeds in cherry tomatoes. GI issues.
      Someone on here, is an expert on TP, can’t remember who has the huge stash.
      It is a matter of using whatever happens to grow the best in any given year. You can control it a little, but mother nature does what she wants and leaves you to deal with it

      1. We have a hand crank juicer we got from Rural King that makes canning tomatoes so much easier. I was reluctant to get one at first because they are $45 but it is well worth the money. It removes peels, stems and seeds and give nice clean juice. My grandkids like to help when we are using it too.

  3. Snap bean and tomato counts should be more than double or many times what is shown, same with beets. Unless you live in the far North, you should be able to get at least two plantings of beets a year. We plant twice in the spring and once in the fall. We consistently get 20 plus pounds of tomatoes per plant and that takes into consideration the one or two plants that die during the season. 50 tomato plants per hundred foot row is 1000 pounds of tomatoes!! Their cabbage counts are very misleading, if not outright wrong. Chinese cabbage (Korean, Napa, call it what you want), and any large head regular Dutch variety like Flat or White Dutch should be planted at least 24 inches apart to develop properly and even then, their outer leaves will be touching or overlapping at harvest.

    I can’t help but remember that it was an expert at the LSU ag center that told me one time that I didn’t need to add any soil amendments to my garden because there was enough already there in this delta dirt to last a hundred years!! LOLOL… Oh well, it is what it is. Anyway happy gardening to all.

    1. I would think that their ‘general’ estimates are for one planting so as not to confuse.

      Also, most would rather present under-estimates than to over-estimate (less grief that way ;) )

    2. CrabbeNebulae;
      You need to remember that’s an “average”, you need to take your numbers and add mine, so about 1/3 “average” HAHAHAHA
      I don’t get a LOT of produce but I sure do enjoy the Garden :-)
      And yes I agree with the Beet, those things are weeds…. hehehe and I LOVE pickled Beets.

      1. NRP the prolific nature of beets, potatoes and root crops in general are why our ancestors grew them as primary crops.

        For as little food value lettuces give us AND the issues of bugs and critters I often wonder why I bother to grow them at all. AT least Beet Greens and Cabbage have good nutrition value and cabbage stores well.

        1. I grow the greens as a starter–they’re ready long before anything else is.

      2. I didn’t even bother to plant beets this year. We still have pickled beets from 2012 so we’re working through the backlog.

        1. Lauren with your experiences how long are beet seeds viable? Do you save them? Any advice in how to save beet seeds?

        2. Beets are a biannual, so they need to grow for a second year. Seed beets will need to be in an area where you don’t intend to plant anything else the following year (same with carrots and onions). I haven’t had luck overwintering them inside, they prefer to stay in the ground, but they also don’t like extreme cold. Protecting the crowns worked to a certain extent.

          They seem to come true to type but different types will cross, so if you decide to save beet seeds make sure different varieties are planted to flower each year. If there’s an extended thaw, then a freeze, the baby beets might think they’re into their second year and bolt in the first year before creating a bulb. I pull those.

          They seem to be viable well over 5 years, but that’s as long as I’ve tried so far. Each seed is actually a cluster of seeds, which may account for the older seeds continuing to germinate.

        3. Thanks Lauren! On the second year after overwinter do you get a seeding shoot that you cut and dry? How do you know the seeds are properly developed before cutting?

          Not sure I understand about the extended thaw and a freeze comment about baby beets bolting into seed production? Are you planting them in the fall this year looking for an early crop next spring?

          I plant garlic in the fall for a next fall harvest but I never thought about planting beets for an early spring harvest. Am I misunderstanding you here?

        4. If I plant beets in spring, sometimes it will freeze again after I plant. If this happens the beet seedlings will sometimes (often!) put up seed stalks from the immature beet when it warms again, thinking they’ve been through winter and it’s time to flower. While this may be a way to “force” seeds if you’re short, there’s no way to tell what you’re getting because the beet hasn’t developed yet so I pull them rather than letting them go to seed.

          When planting for seed, the beets will develop the normal way for the first year. Then, under protection or inside, the seed beets need to be kept over the winter. One way or another the crown needs to be protected. In the spring they will leaf out as usual and then put up a tall stalk (more likely a bunch of them). You’ll notice when this happens. They start to look weedy and the beet greens harden. Leave the stalks until the seeds start to dry. If this is your first time planting beets for seed I’d suggest letting one plant dry entirely so you can follow the progression and figure out when to take the next step. When the seeds look like beet seeds (spiny dry balls along the edge of the yellowing stalk) then you can pull the whole thing, stick the seed end in a bag and let it dry naturally. The seeds will fall off into the bag. You may end up with a lot of seeds still stuck to the stalk–just put on a gardening glove and run your hand along the stalk to remove them.

  4. I like this post, but this is much more than my brown thumb can produce. Something to shoot for, anyway.

    1. DaisyK, If your garden is only 10 feet long, just divide the figures by 10…

  5. Ken
    You may wish to consider the “Garden Kneeler & Seat” sold through Amazon, or see if you can find one locally. We have one an it has been a blessing for getting up & down. I like so much, have considered adding another one to the place as this one is in use all the time.

      1. NRP
        Love raised garden beds like you so much easier on the body.

        The Garden Kneeler is for those of us who need a helping hand getting up after getting down…lol. Just because the mind states I am 30ish something, the body is REALLY!!!!! since when?? You are older than dirt! rowl

        1. Antique Collector;
          Ahhhhh God ain’t that the truth, sometimes I feel older that the dirt in the Garden.
          Although there are those days when the old fart does really good, of course then life kicks ya right back again LOLOLOL

        2. Thats how ive been feeling lately, and i aint even as old as you cuz

      2. We have raised beds about 3 ft. High. Just right for a 5 ft. Woman! We looked at the sq. Ft garden book before we started and weren’t happy with planting in sq. feet and wanted a deeper bed for better roots. Our beds are around 15 ” deep and things are planted in 4×8 ft or 4×4 ft beds. Plus we have lick tubs and 100 gallon stock tanks planted. Kind of hard to figure rows.

  6. I Have a great way to plant carrots and get almost twice the yield in my 12 foot row. I spread my thumb and little finger apart and draw two rows instead of one in a line. the lines are about 6 or 7 inches apart, and I plant both lines. (Carefully, or you’ll do a lot of thinning.) When they come up and you can tell them from the weeds, you weed them and thin,(if needed) then let them grow. As they get taller, the tops sort of grow together and crowd out the weeds in between. I plant Imperator carrots, which are also Heirloom. They’re just like the long carrots you buy in the grocery store, and they are yummie.

  7. Best tomato 🍅 plant i ever grew from seed is an Oregon Spring. They always grow and produce. Hot, cold, rain or drought it doesn’t matter. After a few years of saving seed they adapt to your climate and are close to 1 pound. The taste is great and they grow in pots, tubs, rows in soil, or raised beds. They are the first to bloom and produce. Sorry a bit off target.

Comments are closed.