Sno Seal beeswax application Instructions

Sno Seal Beeswax Instructions For Waterproofing Boots

I use Sno Seal beeswax to waterproof the leather on my boots. I have been waterproofing boots with beeswax for many years. So I thought that I would write up a quick post on the best way to apply Sno Seal. Instructions below.

I have a number of various pairs of boots. You can see a picture of my crusty Timberland leather work boots above. The photo was taken before I applied a Sno Seal maintenance coat. The boots were in obvious need of some protection and waterproofing.

Did you know that maintenance is a huge part of prepping & preparedness? I don’t care what it is… maintenance is important! When it comes to boots, beeswax such as Sno Seal is cheap insurance to help keep your feet dry – and to protect the leather on your boots.

Here’s a picture of those boots after Sno Seal application:
The beeswax creates a protective coating that should last approximately a year..

While the picture above still shows the leather’s wear-and-tear, the boots are now coated and penetrated with a soft beeswax that will keep the moisture out. The boot leather was so dry, I will probably apply beeswax a second time.

The Sno Seal instructions say to apply as much as the leather will absorb.

Note that the leather appearance will become a shade or two darker (just so you know).

What is Sno Seal?

It is really made from Bee’s Wax. Not grease or oil or some other product.

It’s made in the USA by a company named ‘ATSKO’, located in Orangeburg, SC.

Original Beeswax Waterproofing

What’s Good About Sno Seal For Waterproofing?

Sno Seal is acclaimed superior from the combination of its ability to remain fixed in the outer layer of the leather, and the excellent water resistance of Beeswax. It dries to a solid wax that remains on the surface.

Grease, oil, animal fat, and many other wax formulas are liquid (or at least soft enough to migrate thru leather). Many say that they’re not as good as beeswax because they soak away from the surface and migrate through the leather.

Beeswax provides just enough lubrication to prevent hardening of leather in typical use.

It maintains flexibility in freezing temperatures.

Sno Seal Instructions

How to apply Sno Seal to your boots.

First, clean your boots. Common sense, right? Towel off any dirt…

Then, using a circular motion, rub the beeswax (Sno Seal) into your boots with a clean, soft cloth. An old cotton T-shirt works well. I use a small piece of cotton (cut from an old t-shirt).

TIP: It helps to warm up your boots first so the beeswax absorbs more readily (e.g. with a hairdryer or leave them in front of the wood stove or radiator, etc..). It does help, although I’ve done it both ways (with and without pre-heating).

Apply a thick coat of the wax and be sure the boots are covered completely, paying special attention to the toe and heel. I apply it especially thick to the seam-sole areas. You might consider using a toothbrush, Q-tip or soft scrub brush to work the beeswax into the seam.

Set the boots aside until no longer tacky or wet to the touch, or overnight to allow the beeswax to penetrate the leather completely.

In the morning, remove any excess wax with a cloth.

(You can also get it in a tube)

Note: Even if you have purchased a pair of “waterproof boots,” the factory waterproofing may wear off quickly. So, don’t forget to waterproof them yourself too. Each time you clean the boots, reapply a waterproof seal.

[ Read: A Good Pair of Work Boots ]

[ Read: Best Ice Cleats for Shoes and Boots ]


  1. Ive used Sno Seal,
    Good stuff, but honestly have never had a pair of boots last a year or more, they are generally beat to hell in 9-10 months.

      1. Used to use Sno Seal a lot on my Sorrel boots big help keeping them dry, also have used it on work boots, it will keep the leather from getting trashed too fast in wet conditions.
        Unfortunately i havent found many so called waterproof boots to truly be waterproof. Luckily i havent been working in as wet a conditions as i had been about 15 years ago so feet stay dry these days, until i get out working around the homestead anyway. If its real wet i just grab the muck boots,

  2. There is a reason the Army checked the shine on my boots every day. Not to see who had the shiniest boots, but to ensure proper maintenance of a very important tool. The lazy patent leather boot guys usually had the shiniest boots, but the black KIWI polish would make the shine darker/deeper.

    I worked in the chemical industry for years after the army, wearing steel toed leather work boots. I used many different products over the years and found that I could spray them with water after work, to get the crud off. I let them dry overnight, and then sprayed with DriFab, Camp Dry, or any of the waterproofing aerosols daily before work. It was easy and made my boots last as long as any other products I tried.

  3. Some hefty inflation..
    I condense my two little tubs/jars of snoseal 2 winters ago when I needed to use it to recondition my many years old sorrel winter boots.
    I cheated and used a hair dryer to help it soak in faster but leaving in the sunlight on a hot day works fine, just slow.

    Snoseal, an old toothbrush, time and effort and your good.
    So long as the leather isn’t cracking there’s a possibility this treatment can bring it back to useful.

    Back to inflation.
    $14.99 for two in the amazon ad today, 7 oz each.
    My old container 7oz bought back.. around y2k was and still is priced at $2.49

    This stuff stores nearly forever, it’s a good helper-firestarter like petroleum jelly and lubricant for
    squeaky joints/hinges if you can manage to coat the parts, lubricates problem boot laces like leather laces.
    I’m positive there are other uses just can’t think of them atm.

  4. i have used snow seal or other beeswax products on all of my leather for years and it has always worked very well for me. bowl wax for toilets is 100% beeswax, you just have to melt it down in a double boiler, and it’s cheap. snow seal can be hard to find sometimes in my area but it’s a lot easier to use. it’s what i use when i can find it.
    i’ll warm the leather, and when i say warm i mean get hot with a heat gun or hair dryer and put it on.
    i always seem to end up with gobs around the seam’s, and that’s good. i’ll just reheat it and let it soak in.
    the seams are where will you will get leaks.
    boots and holsters, all leather, it has always worked good for me.

  5. Used sno seal for many years but has been impossible to source around our neck of the woods for years. Did the job well and was more hands on than the spray and forget stuff so you felt it was doing the job.
    My scout good reminder about the toilet seals I usually have a number on hand.

  6. During my time in Alaska in the military I used Sno-Seal all the time. I applied it a little differently though; I warmed the boots and rubbed the stuff on. Then I used a hair drier on low heat to warm the boots again. This distributes the sealer evenly and gets it soaked into the seams. It also thins the sealer to allow it to penetrate deeper into the leather. For the record, this stuff really works!

  7. I use Thompson’s water seal. Intended for sealing brick and concrete l paint it on my boots and work gloves. When I worked construction in wet sleet the outside of both would be soaked but my hands and feet were dry. One can seems to last forever. It will darken the color of the leather but that is a small price for something that works so well.

    1. SemperFido,
      another great idea. i had never thought about using that. i have been looking to find something to use on an OLD pup tent, everything else i have tried in small spots has stayed to tacky. Thompson’s may just be the ticket.
      thanks, i’ll try it

      1. NyScout,
        Here is my experience using Thompsons water seal on a tent trailer.
        Older, 70s tent trailer. My ex decides to use Thompsons on it to make sure it is water tight. Paints on 2 or 3 gallons. Let’s it dry. Cannot put it back down!! Shrank the material and couldn’t get the supports down with out ripping the material. Never got to use the tent trailer. One of the MANY reasons he is the EX!!
        Good luck.

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