The Best Way To Store Fuel

“What is the best way to store fuel, gasoline or kerosene?  I was thinking about a 55 gallon drum with a hand pump for access. What do you suggest?” (asked a reader here on the blog)

Gasoline is difficult to store for a long time. It will go stale. Due to EPA regulations, today’s fuels are refined such that they will not last very long in storage (without treatment). Gasoline also has a high vapor pressure (which means it evaporates quickly).

Generally speaking, gas will begin to go stale in a number of weeks (but especially ‘months’) if not chemically treated.

Regardless of how you store fuel, the most important thing for longevity is…

Store Gasoline Treated with Fuel Stabilizer Additive:

Good Gas Stabilizer Additive:
Sta-bil Fuel Stabilizer
(view on amzn)

Best Gasoline Fuel Stabilizer (costs a bit more)
PRI Fuel Stabilizer- For Gasoline 32oz
(view on amzn)

First, some common-sense precautions

  • Keep gasoline out of children’s sight and reach.
  • Never store gasoline in glass containers
  • Never store gasoline in those non-reusable plastic containers (e.g milk jugs).
  • Store gasoline in purpose designed ‘gas cans’.
  • Never use gasoline inside the home or as a cleaning agent.
  • Do not smoke when handling gasoline!!
  • Never use gasoline in place of kerosene.
  • Only fill portable gasoline containers outdoors.
  • Store outside in ventilated shed, etc..
  • Don’t use to start a camp fire – too explosive!

[ Read: 3 Gas Siphon – Fuel Transfer Pumps ]

Storing Gasoline in 55 Gallon Drums

55-gallon steel drums can be useful for above-ground storage, vertical with a hand pump or horizontally mounted on a rack with a spigot valve. An advantage to this method is that it’s somewhat portable (compared to underground storage).

If considering a buried tank, set it below the frost line where temperatures are stable at 55° F or so. This will inhibit evaporation. If buried fuel tanks offend your sense of environmental responsibility, then consider above ground storage. Research the laws in your region on this subject.

Store in a shaded place. Sunlight will speed up the oxidation process of the fuel. Temperature swings will cause condensation to form at the bottom (keep a valve at the bottom to periodically drain for this purpose).

Keep the tank near full. This will reduce chances of condensation. You could use a fuel filter at the output valve to separate the water from fuel if this is a concern.

Consult your local regulations regarding underground (and above ground) fuel storage. If one were to decide to bury a 55-gallon steel drum, know that all steel tanks will eventually leak in this condition. If you must store fuel underground, you should use purpose-built underground storage tanks for fuels. Otherwise, be sure to at least coat the tank exterior with many coats of rust inhibitor and/or coat with a thick coat of heavy roofing tar which will help significantly.

Note: “Poly” drums (the type for water storage) are made of high density plastic, and should not be used to store fuel. Over time the fuel will react with the plastic and gradually deteriorate the drum interior.

Underground Storage Tanks For Fuel

Today, the recommended UST (Underground Storage Tanks) for fuel are made of double-wall fiberglass reinforced plastic.

Regarding EPA regulations, do your due-diligence. However, apparently, the following Underground Storage Tanks do NOT need to meet federal requirements for USTs:

  • Farm and residential tanks of 1,100 gallons or less capacity holding motor fuel used for noncommercial purposes;
  • Tanks storing heating oil used on the premises where it is stored;
  • Tanks on or above the floor of underground areas, such as basements or tunnels;
  • Septic tanks and systems for collecting storm water and wastewater;
  • Flow-through process tanks;
  • Tanks of 110 gallons or less capacity; and
  • Emergency spill and overfill tanks.

Gas Can Fuel Storage

To directly answer the question of what is the best way to store fuel…

Ordinary gas cans in a shaded outdoor area (or in a ventilated shed or out-building for example).

If you’re talking about quantities like 55-gallon drums, the safest way is underground provided that you are using approved UST’s. I would seriously look at what is available for fiberglass reinforced tanks, although this will cost more than an ordinary steel drum. I do like the notion of portability if stored above ground. Depending on your property, it may be simple enough to discretely hide it.

Be very aware that unlike years ago, today’s fuels are refined such that they will not last long in storage, due to EPA regulations. So you will need to rotate what you have and use fuel stabilizers.

Note: Kerosene is one of the easiest fuels to store, and is more versatile than most people think. It does not evaporate as readily as gasoline and will remain stable in storage with no special treatment. Many pre-1950 farm tractor engines were designed to run on kerosene, and diesels will run on kerosene if necessary.

>> Battery Powered Gas Can Transfer Pump
(view on amzn)

[ Read: Safe Storage of Gas & Combustible Fuels ]


  1. look into the use of Pri D or Pri G
    much longer storgage life than StaBil

    1. PRI-G also has the ability to restore degraded fuel. Don’t think that Stabil does. Putting twice the recommended amount of Stabil in will make your gas last a *lot* longer.

      Be well.

  2. I have a question alittle off target here.But for oil lamps would kerosene store longer than lamp oil?

    1. Found this on a forum somewhere…

      “but a guy who was a kero dealer for 20 years gave us some straight info regarding shelf life of K-1. He said it will keep for years will no problem (no precise number of years).

      It can can get moldy as water separates from the kero over time (though less likely with K-1), so a plastic container is better (due to rust). He also mentioned that the water separates to the bottom of the container. So pour off the good stuff and discard when you hit water/mold.”

      I’ve also read that ultra pure lamp oil will last nearly indefinitely. So, if both lamp oil and kerosene last for at least several years, it seems to me that it comes down to price and preferences.

      For example, I believe that ultra pure lamp oil will burn cleaner, which may be a better situation for indoors. My own experience with these lamps are with lamp oil, so I cannot offer a hands-on comparison to kerosene.

      1. I have used both, lamp oil does burn cleaner. But it is about cost. A local company has kerosene{non dye}at 3.98 gal.compared to 5.99gal.for lamp oil.

    2. Woodnick
      Something to keep in mind for your oul lamps, you can use rancid vegetable or olive oil in them,,, doesnt burn as clean as the nice thin lamp oul but it works, can mix it too

  3. SAFETY ISSUE: Always ground your fuel drums or containers.
    Static electricity can start a fuel fire via fuel vapors.

    My experience: 12 years working at the Fuels Management Section, many AFBs
    in the Air Force; worked in fuel bulk storage, hydrant system and drove flight line fuel trucks of 5000 gal. So i know what I’m talking about.

    Always ground yourself, your vehicle and your fuel container.

  4. My experience with jet fuel, av-gas, diesel, mo-gas and bunker fuel:
    Suspended water is squeezed out of the fuel as it cools (in the fall/winter as in Goose Bay, Labradore, Canada)- the fuel will absorb that same water back into the fuel as it warms (spring/summer). When it is sitting at the bottom of the fuel tank it may be drained away.

    Any water in a metal fuel container will cause rust flakes that will plug your fuel filter, fuel line, injectors, etc. Rust is your enemy. Get rid of the water.

    Water in jet fuel or av-gas is kept from freezing by an additive called Fuel System Icing Inhibitor (FSII). If the jet fuel or av-gas did not have the FSII the water would plug the fuel system screens, pumps and fuel lines of an aircraft.

  5. From my Chemist PHD friend,

    “Store Diesel for no more that 5-7 years with a Stabilizer, also get the Red stuff (off road/farm diesel), not the Green (Road) diesel”
    “Store only Premium Gas with Stabilizer for no more that 3-4 years”
    “Store Regular NON-Ethanol with Stabilizer for no more than 3-4 years”
    ” NEVER (and yes he rose his voice) store that (and again I’m quoting) CRAP Ethanol”
    ” Kerosene will store without stabilizer for 8-10 years”
    “Propane will store for longer that you will live”

    He also recommended to keep approx. 1″ to 1-1/2″ of airspace on a 55-gallon Drum, burp it in summer but don’t expose to “air”.
    Lastly he suggested to get drums used for Lacquer-thinner of Acetone, the lining is different, made to withstand the chemicals.

    But what would I know, I don’t store any fuel, I depend on the .gov to keep the fuel flowing.

    1. NRP
      I dont store any either, i usually just put 4 or 5 bucks worth every time i go anywhere and never let it get over 1/4 tank🤪

  6. Do we have a method to ground a 55 gal drum? I am picking some up this week to store diesel at the ranch and this is timely.

    1. Rwt,
      Many ways, simple always works for me. Most hardware/building centers sell copper/brass grounding rods. Drive it into the ground, clamp booster cable lead to it, clamp corresponding lead onto rim of the drum. If you have two drums you can use same rod, just connect the other cable to the additional drum. (I have used rebar instead of copper rod)

    2. RWT
      In over 30 years of hauling deisel and gasoline around in 55gallon drums and using all manner of pumps both manual and 12v i dont think ive ever grounded the drums, i guess it could be something i should do, but never seen anything grounded except for permanent mounted fuel tanks,,,,
      Just sayin

  7. Well, here is a thought, If stupid stuff ever happens. That’s a Big IF, Get a hand crank drill. a few 5 gallon buckets, lids, funnel – with screen, some decent chemical gloves, and go to the stupid new and used car lots. All the tanks are made out of plastic. They are storeing fuel for you, and most of them have at least a quarter full tanks. If possible bring a lookout, the car store may be abandoned (make sure it is of course) if thier is no law, it will be everybody out for themselves and if the really thin veneer of civilization is peeled, your spotter, may come in handy.

    1. into the Freya can I guess you have never looked into the issues of this “Plan”?

      #1 unless your in a parking lot full of jacked up cars no 5 gallon bucket will fit under them. So drill, funnel into shallow pans, transfer into better buckets with lids to transport………

      #2 I kinda doubt that local thugs have not planned for such salvage or even spare vehicle parts and will give you the thrill of your short life if your caught raiding “Their” supplies. You do not need a Look Out friend You NEED an Infantry Squad for this task.

      #3 If your successful and somehow nobody noticed your efforts now you have a couple of 5 gallon buckets partly full of questionable gasoline. Heavy isn’t it? Also really flammable if someone starts shooting at you.

      #4 If you ever brag about this commando raid and someone needed to salvage that car (now with a punctured tank) they will not be very friendly about it.

      All this activity after SHTF and really hungry angry folks are running around looking for supplies like yourself. Do you really want to be out in the middle of the Gene Pool Cleansing like that?

      1. NHM
        Sometimes ya got to wonder,,,
        I like Old Remus advice
        “Stay away from crowds”
        That includes formerly crowded places like car lots and surrounding areas…..

        1. Nailbanger I wish I knew how to create a thumbs up for that one! Stay Away from crowded areas indeed. :-)

        2. IMHO
          If ANYTHING goes awry, the last thing i will be doing is leaving our neighborhood for any reason

        3. I stay away from crowded areas NOW. The older I get the less I can stand crowds – and this from a gal who never missed a rock concert in her youth. Lol

        4. Linda S;
          YA got that right, and this is from someone that hit Woodstock, the original HAHAHA admittedly I was wayyyyy to young to remember much but….
          I still say the world would be a GREAT place if it was not for people :-)

  8. Most folks know this, but I’ll mention it on the chance some don’t. Gasoline doesn’t burn, but it’s vapor along with oxygen does. That’s the reason for grounding both containers when transferring gasoline from one to another. when a cap is removed, vaporizing takes place and static electricity sparks can ignite the vapors.
    My Dad was an independent garage owner (self employed mechanic). He routinely repaired holes in metal fuel tanks on customer’s cars by welding (actually brazing with a torch and copper rod). You should have seen the astonishment on their faces when he told them to go fill the tank with gas before he welded it. When they returned, he took a towel soaked in water and wrapped it over and around the filler cap, took a bar of Ivory soap to force caked soap into the hole to be welded to temporarily stop the leak, then brazed the hole to seal it. He explained that the reason for filling the tank with gasoline first was to insure the volume was such that it would not boil (vaporize) from the small point of temporary intense heat. My Dad left school in the 10th grade to help his father, my grandfather, in his blacksmith shop. Education doesn’t substitute for intelligence and experience. I learned much from my Dad. If he were still alive, I would have no concerns about shtf. His smarts would get us through.

    1. Dennis we have LOST so many useful tricks like this as your Dad was not inclined to write books. Thank you for passing this trick on but I must say I’d be more than worried to really do that repair.

      Thus my annoyance at folks who think drilling holes in gas tanks for some gasoline is a good SHTF idea. Someone might have a use for that vehicle.

      1. NH Michael, I watched Dad do that repair so many times, I lost count. No other shops would do it. Most shops would remove the tank after draining it, then fill the tank with water before welding holes, then have to drain it, attempt to get all the water out, then re-install, or just replace it with a new tank. An expensive repair.
        Dad’s technique took about 15 minutes and he usually charged $5-$10 as opposed to $150-$200 in 1950’s-60’s dollars. He never had a mishap. The science behind this technique is sound. He saved a lot of poor folks a lot of their hard earned money, another lost trait. The older widows in town never knew that a tune-up cost more than the cost of the points, plugs, and condenser. He never charged them for the labor. Dad felt it was important to do what he could for folks who, through no fault of their own, had limited resources. I’ve tried to continue that in my life.

        1. Dennis your Dad pointed out that Self Respect was earned by kindness.

      2. NH Michael – “LOST so many useful tricks” – I blame it on YouTube, for NOT being around 50 years ago when we needed them. There were many, many “here, hold my beer” moments that sounded catastrophic but actually worked. And they all went un-recorded. (Of course, there were more that didn’t work, and it’s just as well that there’s no record of those.)

        CD in Oklahoma

  9. Sorta on and off topic. I buy RV fuel with no Ethanol and have been told by different manufactures that it should store well for at least 4 years. Most boat marinas sell it.

    1. Ok comments
      I’ve buried a 55 gal drum and in it I have put in three 5 gal cans of gasoline.with Stabil additive. All cans are new and have been not been opened, only to fill.
      I have gotten the regular 55 gal drums for storing gasoline, but changed my mind for safety reasons.
      Approx. Life span of the fuel I have stored in the buried drum???

      1. @joe c. I use stabil and its kept the fuel good for 3 years. I used 10 gallons last winter that at least 3 years old in a fuel injected vehicle without problems.

    2. I buy and store non ethanol gas for all of my gasoline engines. If you can find one in your area, it’s the way to go…

      1. Thanks for the info, gents.
        It will be interesting since I don’t remember when I buried them. 🤔
        I more than likely have 15 gals of unburnable junk.
        Will give it the ole sniffer test and mix some with fresh gas. Will see what happens.

      2. One can google non-ethanol gas stations. There are several lists out there. For example, one is on main street in Woodsville NH.

  10. No way gas will last much over a year or so, even with stabilizers. I know this from actual experience.

    Most gas you get today is as much as 15% alcohol. You will lose this 15% early on by evaporation. Stabilizers do help, but don’t expect 3-5 years. Ain`t gonna happen.

    Looking back, I would try to go completely propane. solar, wind. Kerosene. Even diesel will do some better than gas.

    Even at best, it is foolish to think you can store enough gas for 3-5 years. Even if it did last ( and it won`t ), can you really store that many gallons ? Don`t kid your self.

    1. I plan my gasoline rotation such that it’s never beyond a year storage. I only use gasoline for my various lawn mowers, chainsaws, weed whacker, log splitter, post hole digger, generator, atv, & sled.

      Similarly with diesel, my storage will be rotated before a year. I use it for my tractor and my truck.

      It’s generally risky to expect quality gasoline beyond 1 year or more of storage even with fuel stabilizer. Best to rotate, just like one’s food storage inventory!

      1. Ken, i just filled my 45hp tractor out of an old fuel tank i had down in my storage yard that im pretty sure i havent touched in over 4 years, was bright red and that hypnotizing scent of diesel fuel as always,,, seems fine,

        1. My old Ford tractor too… I’ve had diesel that’s more than a year and it runs fine. Other than the smoke that comes out of the exhaust stack, regardless… What can I say – it’s old.

        2. Hey Ken

          Hope you’re doin well. Thanks for your blog. I find it amusin you consider your tractor “old”. hahaha I only saw that one pic in the article a while back, pic showed very little but looks like might be ford 3xxx series. My point is, it”s quite interestin how we all can see the same exact thing, but we can perceive it so differently.

        3. It’s actually a Ford model 1920, 33 HP, built in ’89. I suppose there are certainly lots of older tractors out there! Not complaining though. It does what I need it to do, and has been very reliable.

        4. Ken

          When I think of “old” tractors I am thinkin 1930’s or older. haha I have several older pieces. Oldest one I have right now is a 52 model and I don’t consider it all that old….my perception…..funny ain’t it:?. 1920 was built by shibaura if I remember correctly. Thanks again for all your work.

        5. Here’s a potential low key idea. Install an oil tank (or extra oil tank) in your house basement, even if you don’t have an oil burning furnace. Totally innocuous. You can pump it out in privacy.

      2. Ken;
        Diesel for that F-350?
        DUDE, I’ve seen the native population around here pour the drippings off the Mutton Stew and dump into the F-150-D, runs GREAT, no need to use that High $$$ Fuel in a Ford HAHAHAHA

        1. NRP
          I used to have a deuce and a half cargo truck with that multi fuel continental 6 banger, we literally dumped almost anything into the fuel tank, of course we had to change out filters every 5 feet but hey, that smell of bacon was way better than diesel smoke

        2. Nailbender;
          You bring up a good point, a LOT of folks use Bio-Diesel here, Ya can always tell, their trucks smell like French Fries. HAHAHA

        3. NRP
          Lots try to use biodiesel here, the company producing it sucks and the stuff ruins your vehicle, doesnt matter, new, old, it gunks em all up, everybody i know who gleefully started using it will now say no way ever again with a good scowl on their face. They get all their feed stock from grease traps, the sediment innit is terrible, i bought a 5 gallon can of the stuff and transferred it to a big clear beer making bottle to watch it, at first it looked ok, but after 3 days it started growing, just garbage.
          A bud of mine gets waste oul from a couple restaurants and makes his own in his workshop, wayyyyy better, pretty easy too once you get the hang of it, his biggest issue is what to do with all the byproducts, told him he needs to start making soap or something, french fry/fish scented soap, mmmm🤪

        4. RAncjers Wife;
          You know exactly what I mean HAHAHAHA

          BTW, welcome back, just remember there is a very special place for the good ones. Enough said ok? for some of us know.

        5. Ranchers Wife;

          “RAncjers Wife” ???? what the heck was that typing??? HAHAHA Sorry about that.

    2. Thats funny because ive been running my Skagg 52” zero turn mower off a drum thats got a date of 9/15 on it and i mow over an acre of grass every week on our homestead, it doesnt even sputter

    3. Phred;
      Y-all might be surprised what these ol-country boys can store, how much and for how long.
      Anyone foolish enough to try to store Ethanol Gas welllll obviously ya did not read the Comments.

    4. I have stored pump gas for 2 to 3 yrs using double dose of stabil for at least 15 yrs now and it is fine, keep container off of ground or concrete to avoid any condensation.

  11. I have several of the red 5-6 gal plastic fuel cans sitting in my shop. Non ethanol “Premium” gas.

    I “think” they were treated with PRI-G last summer. Is there any way to determine if the fuel is still good without putting it into one of the vehicles and gumming up the works?

    Also…if determined to be too old for use, what’s the best way to dispose of old gasoline?


    1. FinallyOuttaCA;

      May I suggest (without getting you pissed) you read this Article on Fuel Storage:

      Storing Gas in the Garage wellllll ok, would NOT suggest it, but ok….

      As far as the 1 year old Gas, I have two suggestions,
      1st, can you just cycle it out and replace?
      2nd, just go ahead and re-treat the gas, after a year it should not be a problem.

      Disposing of “old gas” well since the EPA reads this BLOD every day I would never suggest distributing it on the Dirt Driveway to help kill out all the weeds growing there. You may also mix with ‘fresh’ fuel in the vehicle to ‘get rid of it’, maybe 10% each time.

    2. FWIW, I store only non-ethanol fuel, and if it gets a bit long in the tooth run it in my mowers or other 2 cycle application.

      1. Me too. I’m fortunate to have a station that sells it not too terribly far from my location. I recall that if you search for it on the web, there’s a site that shows a map of all ethanol free stations in the U.S.

  12. If you live in the frozen northern climes – you need to mind the seasonal fuel mix change … the temperature triggered mixes play hell with the modern fuel injectors when misapplied …

    A seasonal change in stored fuel is a good rotational rule if you buy off the retail pumps – adding in one of the fuel preservatives is never a bad idea and always worth the little extra $$$$$ ….

    1. Illini Warrior;
      I agree 1000%, determine the amount you want/need to store, once that is reached cycle the fuel out each time you fill the vehicle, I do this at about a 50% mix old/stored fuel with new from the pump, at the same time I replenish the stored I use with new.
      Of course that is if I actually had a storage of fuels. :-(

      1. good point – watch mixing that older stored gas into your vehicle tank – 5 gallons of fuel is a big hunk of your car’s tank these days … if the conditions are really adverse – such as a winter mix during 90 degree weather – might want to keep that mix to a minimum ….

        1. Illini Warrior;
          Your absolutely correct. On the average I do right at 21 gallons of Diesel a week, so I use 2 5-gallon cans of re-mix a week, works well.
          Honestly I have not seen to much of a problem with the Winter and Summer mix here also. Of course I run a “real” truck aka Duramax, seems to love anything I feed it, even that Mutton Stew drippings… HAHAHA

        2. NRP
          I have driven behind Duramax trucks I think, but could not quite tell for the black smoke – how much oil do you use? :)
          If I could, I would have all diesel fueled atv, chainsaws, generators, …. slowly moving in that direction as funds and availability of equipment allow.
          At this point in time, using agricultural products for ethanol make no sense to me. The future may require this type of renewable fuel source but at the expense of food????

        3. Hermit,
          Ive followed a few Duramax trucks, usually while they were on the deck of a Ford tow rig

        4. hermit us;
          OUCH!!!! hahahaha
          Actually I have right 260K on the Duramax, and no problems so far, have not even changed out the Injectors yet… KNOCK ON WOOD and no smoke…. well jujst when I stomp on it to blow by a Ford struggling up a slight grade (Wolfcreek Pass for example) :-)
          I agree on the “other” equipment, have Diesel Gen-set tis nice…..

  13. Do I need to do anything special to switch my vehicle, mower, etc. to non-ethanol gas?

  14. I wonder if we might look forward to an article on converting to propane? That stuff lasts forever. And no need for additives!

  15. RV gas (mentioned above) is also sold as ‘Rec (recreation) Gas’ in my state. It has no ethanol (Yay!) but sadly, cost around $1 gal. more (Boo!) and right now ‘corn- gas’ is around $2.80 gal. in my state. Rec gas is what I use in ALL my small engines. chain saw’s, riding and walk behind lawn mower, weed eater, rototiller, snow blower, generator, etc.
    I’ve been using StaBil for over 15 years (primarily because it’s available everywhere, where as Pri-G / D is not). The StaBil is added to EVERY 5gal. can of fuel I have prior to filling and I’ve never had an issue with my fuel (rec gas or corn gas) turning ‘sour’ on me. I’ve even left it (unintentionally) in my small engines over winter with no issues what so ever. (although I try to drain my equipment for winter storage, just doesn’t happen every year.)
    One last note, I have to drive around 20 miles each way for the nearest Rec Gas, while only 5 miles each way for corn gas. When I do have to use the ethanol gas, I only use the least amount to finish the job, still adding StaBil to the can.

  16. how long can gasoline last in a 55gallon drum before it starts losing oxidation, without gas stabilizer?

  17. I tried my best to read through the article and comments.

    My plan initially was to have some custom aluminum 55 gallon rectangular tanks made for aviation fuel storage. I was modeling them after “transfer tanks” used in truck beds. Those are typically designed with a safety vent valve, fill port, rotary hand pump port and a small drain plug. I wanted to store them inside a 40 foot steel shipping container.

    Per research and reading here, I fear I may be over complicating it and should just source acetone steel 55 gallon drums, store them outside (above ground) in the shade with a grounding rod and with 2 inches of air space inside.

    If I went this simple route do I cover the barrels with a water proof cover? Is it possible to store them in the shipping container if I added many more vents? Do I need to “burp” the barrels to avoid pressure build up?

    In a nutshell I’d like to safely store bulk aviation fuel the smartest way for times the ice knocks the power out.

    1. Thank you for the guidance. I will look into an old horse trailer.

      Just a couple more clarifying questions:

      – the 55 gallon acetone barrels should be air tight with 2 inches of air space inside?

      -do I “burp” the barrels periodically?

      -when grounding do I ground the grounding rod to the trailer and then sync clamp to each barrel?

      1. Kliple:
        Please search and read this Article on this BLOG

        “Safe Storage of Gas & Combustible Fuels”
        Good photo of a shipping container in there

        As far as storing Diesel, i use 55 gallon steel drums. With 1″ head space, Pri-D for an additive. Do not “burp” them.

        Gas is Non-ethanol, cheaper than Av-Gas, with Pri-G, again I don’t “burp” the drums.

        ALL fuel is stored well away from house and garage, with NO ignition points… NO ELECTRICAL to the shed period. And never use a flashlight in the shed.

        Would recommend a cheap tin shed, add extra vents, those Soffit Vents work well.

        I dont ground the drums, bur I do the shed.

        Not an expert here, but that’s what I do.

        1. My new plan is to buy an Arrow metal shed to store my 55 gallon drum of av-fuel (used acetone drum, air tight, with 1-2 inch air space inside and covered with poly). The shed will be grounded.

          I have a handful smaller metal and plastic containers of basic unleaded and diesel as well as propane tanks… I’m gathering it’s recommended to store all them in there too? Must all them be air tight as well? I have two old plastic containers that are missing their caps.

          Is it safe to use the lawn mower, weed wacker, drive the tractor or 4-wheeler around the shed? The shed will be 50 feet away from any open flame sources.

  18. Hello, following up again… I found two 55 gallon drums used for 99% isopropyl alcohol. Inside is lined with a off-white paint. Would is work the same as the acetone drums?

    1. Kliple
      The person who could answer that question is mowing his hay fields at this time. I will ship him an email & point out your question to him. See if he will be able to answer it for you.
      Have patience, it may be today or tomorrow for your answer.

        1. Thank you for the kind thorough response. The two 55 gallon drums im considering using were made for isopropyl alcohol. They have aRed sprayed with a lining on the inside. It sounds like you are saying I should not use these drums to store at-fuel? Instead i should use oil drums?

          I don’t know what you mean by bird I got, but there are many ravens I talk to here. The fuel is for the generator back up.

          I could email you a photo of the inside of the drums if that would help to.

          Thanks 🙂

        2. Oops I saw some typos.

          The isopropyl alcohol steel drums have a sprayed lining that’s an off white color. I assume to help prevent rust. I am trying to store av-fuel for generator backup.

  19. A point that may help someone in a shtf case. I was cleaning out an old shed and found a small fuel can (plastic) that had maybe a gallon left in it, at least 10 years old. After cleaning up I had a pile to burn. The gas in the can had almost no odor but I poured it on the pile, backed way up just in case, and flicked a match at the pile. WHUMP the gas still had power.

    My though is after filtering old gas it could be used in a running engine, in a pinch, to keep it running, not start it but run it by extending what you have by mixing it with the “good” fuel. YMMV.

  20. Since we’re on the subject. Friend of mine uses an old horse trailer for portable fuel storage. Gas and diesel cans, propane tanks. Even with a tarp thrown over to blind prying eyes it’s still well-ventilated. Shaded inside. Lockable. Waiting for one I purchased to be delivered for the same purpose.

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