Common Knife Sharpening Angles Chart (From Major Knife Manufacturers)
Sharpening a knife to its original performance starts with one thing: using the correct sharpening angle and keeping it consistent. Every knife (kitchen, pocket, hunting, or tactical) was originally ground to a specific bevel angle, usually measured in DPS, or degrees per side. Maintaining that angle helps preserve sharpness, edge retention, and the knife’s intended cutting characteristics.
Quick answer: For most knives, the best sharpening angle is 15° to 22° per side. Most Western kitchen knives are around 20° DPS, many Japanese-style kitchen knives are 15° to 16° DPS, pocket knives are often around 20° DPS, and heavier hunting, tactical, or survival knives are usually 22° to 25° DPS. When in doubt, match the knife’s existing factory bevel instead of changing the edge geometry.
Below is a quick-reference angle chart followed by a detailed breakdown by brand and knife type. If you don’t know your knife’s factory bevel, use the angle that most closely matches the edge already on the blade. You’ll maintain sharpness without changing the knife’s geometry.
Table of contents
- What Is the Best Knife Sharpening Angle? (Quick Answer)
- Best Knife Sharpening Angle for Kitchen Knives
- Knife Sharpening Angle Chart (Quick Reference Table)
- DPS vs Inclusive Angle (Important!)
- Knife Sharpening Angle Chart by Brand & Manufacturer
- Recommended Products for Holding a Sharpening Angle
- Knife Sharpness Scale (Durability vs Sharpness)
- Knife Sharpening Abrasives (Quick Overview)
- How to Sharpen a Knife at the Correct Angle
- Knife Sharpening FAQ
- Diamond & Ceramic Rods
- Sharpening a Knife to a Razor Edge with a Strop
- How to Sharpen a Pocket Knife by Hand
What Is the Best Knife Sharpening Angle? (Quick Answer)
The best knife sharpening angle depends on the knife’s purpose, but most blades fall between 15° and 22° per side (DPS).
- 15–16° DPS → razor-sharp, thinner edges (Asian kitchen knives, fillet knives)
- 18–20° DPS → balanced sharpness and durability (most pocket and everyday carry knives)
- 20–22° DPS → stronger working edges (hunting, outdoor, and Western kitchen knives)
- 25–30° DPS → heavy-duty or tactical blades that prioritize toughness over razor sharpness
If you’re unsure of your knife’s factory angle, match the existing bevel. Maintaining the original geometry gives the best combination of sharpness, durability, and edge life.
Best Knife Sharpening Angle for Kitchen Knives

For most kitchen knives, the best sharpening angle depends on whether the knife is Western/European or Asian/Japanese.
Western kitchen knives are usually sharpened at about 20° per side. This gives a durable edge for chopping, slicing, and general kitchen work.
If you are not sure which angle your kitchen knife uses, match the existing bevel rather than changing the knife’s geometry.
Note: Many modern premium European kitchen knives are now sharpened at lower factory angles, such as 14° or 15° per side. The 20° angle is a durable starting point for many traditional Western kitchen knives or unknown kitchen knives. If your knife manufacturer lists a specific angle, use that instead.
| Kitchen Knife Type | Best Starting Angle | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Western / European kitchen knife | 20° DPS | Durable general-purpose kitchen edge |
| Japanese / Asian kitchen knife | 15–16° DPS | Thinner, sharper slicing edge |
| Fillet knife | 15–16° DPS | Fine slicing and flexible blade control |
| Heavy-duty kitchen use | 20–22° DPS | More durability for tougher work |
Knife Sharpening Angle Chart (Quick Reference Table)
These quick-reference charts show the most common sharpening angles (DPS = degrees per side). These angles represent standard factory bevels across major manufacturers.
Most Common Angles
| Knife Type | Best Starting Angle |
|---|---|
| Western kitchen knife | 20° DPS |
| Japanese kitchen knife | 15°–16° DPS |
| Chef knife | 15°–20° DPS |
| Fillet knife | 15°–16° DPS |
| Boning knife | 15°–18° DPS |
| Pocket knife / EDC | 18°–20° DPS |
| Hunting knife | 20°–22° DPS |
| Tactical / survival knife | 22°–25° DPS |
| Buck knives | 13°–16° DPS |
| Benchmade knives | 18°–20° DPS |
| Kershaw knives | 20°–22° DPS |
| Zwilling / Henckels | about 15° DPS |
DPS vs Inclusive Angle (Important!)

Understanding the difference between DPS (degrees per side) and the inclusive angle is essential for sharpening a knife correctly.
DPS (Degrees Per Side)
DPS is the angle applied to each side of the blade.
Manufacturers almost always list sharpening angles in DPS.
Inclusive Angle
The inclusive angle is the total angle created by both sides of the knife edge.
It is simply:
Inclusive Angle = DPS × 2
Quick Examples
| DPS (Per Side) | Inclusive Angle (Total) | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|
| 15° per side | 30° total | Japanese kitchen knives, fillet knives |
| 20° per side | 40° total | Western kitchen knives, EDC pocket knives |
| 22–25° per side | 44–50° total | Hunting, bushcraft, survival knives |
Why This Matters
The DPS value determines how sharp and durable the edge will be:
- Lower angles (12–16° DPS) → Extremely sharp, but more delicate
- Mid-range angles (18–20° DPS) → Balanced sharpness and durability
- Higher angles (22–25° DPS) → Strong, durable edges for outdoor or heavy use
If your goal is to maintain the factory geometry, always match the DPS, not the inclusive angle.
Knife Sharpening Angle Chart by Brand & Manufacturer

Different knife makers use different factory bevel angles depending on steel hardness, blade geometry, and intended use. The chart below combines common manufacturer sharpening angles into one reference section.
These angles are listed in DPS, which means degrees per side. If you do not know your knife’s exact factory bevel, use the closest matching angle below and try to maintain the existing edge geometry rather than reshaping the blade.
J.A. Henckels / Zwilling Knife Sharpening Angle
Most Zwilling and J.A. Henckels kitchen knives are sharpened around 15° per side, while some Cronidur models use a lower angle. If you are not sure which series you own, match the existing bevel and use the chart below as a starting point.
| Knife Type | Angle (DPS) |
|---|---|
| Zwilling / Henckels Cronidur | 12.5° |
| All Other Zwilling / Henckels | 15° |
Kitchen Knife Sharpening Angles by Manufacturer
| Manufacturer | Knife Type | Angle (DPS) |
|---|---|---|
| Global | Chef’s Knife | 17° |
| Global | Santoku | 17° |
| Global | Paring / Utility | 17° |
| Global | Boning Knife | 17° |
| Shun | Chef’s Knife | 16° |
| Shun | Santoku | 16° |
| Shun | Paring Knife | 16° |
| Shun | Utility Knife | 16° |
| Shun | Boning Knife | 16° |
| Wüsthof | Chef’s Knife | 14° |
| Wüsthof | Santoku | 11° |
| Wüsthof | Paring Knife | 14° |
| Wüsthof | Utility Knife | 14° |
| Wüsthof | Boning Knife | 18° |
| Zwilling / Henckels Cronidur | Chef / Santoku / Paring / Utility / Boning | 12.5° |
| All Other Zwilling / Henckels | Chef / Santoku / Paring / Utility / Boning | 15° |
| Serrated Knives | All Brands | Manual sharpening / serrated slot only |
Pocket Knife, EDC, and Multi-Tool Sharpening Angles
Most pocket knives and everyday carry knives fall between 18° and 22° per side. Lower angles slice more easily, while higher angles give a tougher working edge.
| Manufacturer | Angle (DPS) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Al Mar | 20° | Common pocket / EDC angle |
| Benchmade | 18–20° | Balanced sharpness and durability |
| Blade-Tech | 20–22° | Working edge |
| Boker USA | 20–22° | Working edge |
| Buck | 13–16° | Lower factory bevel range |
| Camillus | 23° | Stronger working edge |
| Case | 19–22° | General pocket knife range |
| Cold Steel | 23–25° | Durable heavy-use edge |
| CRKT / Columbia River Knife & Tool | 17–22.5° | Varies by designer / model |
| KA-BAR | Generally 15° | Listed by model; varies |
| Kershaw | 20–22° | Durable pocket / EDC edge |
| Knives of Alaska | 18–20° | Balanced outdoor edge |
| Outdoor Edge | 20° | General working edge |
| SOG | 22° flat grind / 18–20° hollow grind | Depends on blade grind |
| Spyderco | 20° | Common factory angle |
| Victorinox Pocket / Multi-Tool Knives | 15–20° | Listed range |
| Winchester | Use Smith’s recommended angle for knife type | No single published standard |
Buck Knife Sharpening Angles
Buck 110 sharpening angle: Buck knives are generally ground around 13° to 16° per side. For a Buck 110, start by matching the existing factory bevel. If you use a guided sharpener, a setting near 15° DPS is a logical starting point, while a slightly higher micro-bevel can add durability for harder use.
| Knife Type | Angle (DPS) |
|---|---|
| Buck Knives | 13–16° |
Benchmade Knife Sharpening Angles
Benchmade knives are commonly sharpened around 18° to 20° per side, making them a good balance between slicing sharpness and everyday edge durability. Match the existing bevel whenever possible.
| Knife Type | Angle (DPS) |
|---|---|
| Benchmade Knives | 18–20° |
Kershaw Knife Sharpening Angles
Most Kershaw knives are commonly sharpened around 20° to 22° per side, which gives a durable working edge for pocket knives and everyday carry use.
| Knife Type | Angle (DPS) |
|---|---|
| Kershaw Knives | 20–22° |
Hunting and Outdoor Fixed-Blade Sharpening Angles
Hunting and outdoor knives need a stronger edge than fine kitchen knives. Most fall between 20° and 25° per side, although some manufacturers use lower or higher angles depending on the blade design.
| Manufacturer | Angle (DPS) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Al Mar | 20° | General outdoor edge |
| Benchmade | 18–20° | Balanced outdoor edge |
| Blade-Tech | 20–22° | Durable working edge |
| Boker USA | 20–22° | Durable working edge |
| Buck | 13–16° | Match existing factory bevel |
| Camillus | 23° | Stronger working edge |
| Case | 19–22° | General hunting / outdoor range |
| Cold Steel | 23–25° | Heavy-use edge |
| CRKT / Columbia River Knife & Tool | 17–22.5° | Varies by designer / model |
| KA-BAR | Generally 20° for hunting / fixed blades | Listed by model; varies |
| Kershaw | 20–22° | Durable outdoor edge |
| Knives of Alaska | 18–20° | Balanced outdoor edge |
| Outdoor Edge | 20° | Common hunting edge |
| SOG | 22° flat grind / 18–20° hollow grind | Depends on blade grind |
| Spyderco | 20° | General outdoor edge |
| Winchester | Use Smith’s recommended angle for knife type | No single published standard |
Hunting Folder Sharpening Angles
Hunting folders often use the same angles as everyday pocket knives, but with enough durability for field dressing and outdoor work.
| Manufacturer | Angle (DPS) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Al Mar | 20° | General hunting folder edge |
| Benchmade | 18–20° | Balanced sharpness and durability |
| Blade-Tech | 20–22° | Durable working edge |
| Boker USA | 20–22° | Durable working edge |
| Buck | 13–16° | Match existing factory bevel |
| Camillus | 23° | Stronger working edge |
| Case | 19–22° | General hunting folder range |
| Cold Steel | 23–25° | Heavy-use edge |
| CRKT / Columbia River Knife & Tool | 17–22.5° | Varies by designer / model |
| Gerber | 15° | Listed Gerber angle |
| KA-BAR | Generally 15° | Listed by model; varies |
| Kershaw | 20–22° | Durable pocket / hunting edge |
| Knives of Alaska | 18–20° | Balanced outdoor edge |
| Outdoor Edge | 20° | Common hunting edge |
| SOG | 22° flat grind / 18–20° hollow grind | Depends on blade grind |
| Spyderco | 20° | General working edge |
| Winchester | Use Smith’s recommended angle for knife type | No single published standard |
Tactical Knife Sharpening Angles
Tactical and survival knives are usually sharpened at higher angles for toughness. A wider bevel helps resist chipping, rolling, and deformation during hard use.
| Manufacturer | Angle (DPS) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Al Mar | 20° | General tactical edge |
| Benchmade | 18–20° | Balanced sharpness and strength |
| Blade-Tech | 20–22° | Durable working edge |
| Boker USA | 20–22° | Durable working edge |
| Buck | 13–16° | Match existing factory bevel |
| Camillus | 23° | Stronger working edge |
| Case | 19–22° | General tactical range |
| Cold Steel | 23–25° | Heavy-use edge |
| CRKT / Columbia River Knife & Tool | 17–22.5° | Varies by designer / model |
| KA-BAR | Generally 15° | Listed by model; varies |
| Kershaw | 20–22° | Durable working edge |
| Mil-Tac | 25° folders / 30° fixed blades | Heavy-duty tactical edge |
| SOG | 22° flat grind / 18–20° hollow grind | Depends on blade grind |
| Spyderco | 20° | General working edge |
| Surefire | 28° | Heavy-duty edge |
Fillet Knife Sharpening Angle
A fillet knife is usually sharpened at a lower angle because it is designed for thin, flexible slicing. A fine edge helps the blade glide through fish and delicate meat with less resistance.
| Knife Type | Angle (DPS) |
|---|---|
| Fillet Knives, All Brands | 15–16° |
If the edge rolls too easily, use a slightly higher angle or add a small micro-bevel.
Custom Knife Sharpening Angles
| Maker | Angle (DPS) |
|---|---|
| A.G. Russell | 15° |
| Chris Reeve | 18–20° |
| William Henry | 17–22° |
Quick Angle Summary
| Knife Type / Use | Best Starting Angle |
|---|---|
| Japanese kitchen knife | 15–16° DPS |
| Western kitchen knife | 20° DPS |
| Fillet knife | 15–16° DPS |
| Boning knife | 15–18° DPS |
| Pocket knife / EDC | 18–20° DPS |
| Hunting knife | 20–22° DPS |
| Tactical / survival knife | 22–25° DPS |
| Heavy-duty fixed blade | 25–30° DPS |
How to Use This Chart
Use the manufacturer’s listed angle whenever possible. If your exact model is not listed, start with the closest knife type and match the bevel already on the blade.
For example, many pocket knives sharpen well around 20° DPS, while thinner kitchen and fillet knives often perform better around 15° to 16° DPS. Heavier outdoor, tactical, and survival knives usually benefit from a stronger edge in the 22° to 25° DPS range.
The goal is not always to create the thinnest possible edge. The goal is to match the knife’s purpose: sharper and thinner for slicing, stronger and wider for hard use.
See an angle that needs correcting?
Knife sharpening angles can vary by model, blade grind, production year, and manufacturer updates. If you spot an error, find a discrepancy, or know the factory sharpening angle for a knife that is not listed here, please leave a comment below with the brand, model, angle in degrees per side, and where you found the information. I’ll review it and update the chart when appropriate.
Recommended Products for Holding a Sharpening Angle
Knowing the common sharpening angles is one thing. Holding that angle consistently is the hard part. These products are a good fit for those who want to sharpen at a more repeatable angle, whether they use whetstones or prefer a guided system.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases (no extra cost to you).

→ 3-Stage 15° Precision Electric Knife Sharpener(Amazon)
→ 3-Stage 20° Precision Electric Knife Sharpener

→ SHARPAL Angle Pyramid 14, 17, 20, 25°(Amazon)
→ Wedgek Angle Wedges 10–20°, 1° steps

→ Work Sharp Precision Knife Guide 15–30°, 1° steps(Amazon)
→ Work Sharp Professional Precision Sharpener Kit
→ Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener Elite
Knife Sharpness Scale (Durability vs Sharpness)

Every sharpening angle involves a trade-off between sharpness, edge retention, and durability. Lower angles slice more easily but are more delicate. Higher angles are stronger but not as razor-sharp.
This scale shows how sharpening angles translate into real-world performance.
Sharpness Scale by Angle (From Strongest to Sharpest)
| Angle (DPS) | Sharpness Level | Durability | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 25°+ | Moderate | Maximum | Tactical, survival, heavy-duty |
| 22–24° | Good | Very High | Hunting, bushcraft, outdoor knives |
| 20° | Very Good | High | EDC pocket knives, Western kitchen |
| 17–18° | Sharp | Medium | Premium EDC, high-quality steels |
| 15–16° | Razor Sharp | Lower | Japanese kitchen knives, fillet knives |
| 12–14° | Ultra Fine | Very Low | Sushi knives, precision slicing |
When to Choose a Lower vs Higher Angle
Choose a LOWER angle (12–16° DPS) when you want:
- Maximum slicing performance
- Paper-shaving or hair-popping sharpness
- Thin cuts with minimal resistance
- Precision food prep (sushi, fillet, vegetables)
Downside: Chips more easily and dulls faster on hard materials.
Choose a MID-RANGE angle (18–20° DPS) when you want:
- A balance of sharpness and strength
- Versatility in daily tasks
- General kitchen use
- Most pocket knife applications
This is the “sweet spot” for most blades.
Choose a HIGHER angle (22–25° DPS) when you want:
- Maximum toughness and edge stability
- Resistance to roll, chip, and deformation
- Strength for wood, bone, and outdoor tasks
Perfect for survival, hunting, field dressing, and bushcraft knives.
Knife Sharpening Abrasives (Quick Overview)
Different sharpening tools remove metal at different rates. Choosing the right abrasive helps you maintain your knife’s sharpening angle more effectively and avoid unnecessary wear.
Diamond Abrasives
- Fastest metal removal
- Stay perfectly flat
- Excellent for very dull or hard-steel knives
Carbide Sharpeners
- Very aggressive
- Good for quickly restoring a working edge
- Not ideal for fine finishing
Ceramic Rods & Stones
- Remove very little metal
- Ideal for polishing, honing, and edge maintenance
- Great for touching up your angle without reshaping it
Arkansas Stones
- Natural novaculite
- Very smooth, refined finish
- Best for final honing and razor-sharp edges
Synthetic Stones
- Available in many grits
- Versatile for both shaping and finishing
- Consistent results for controlled angle sharpening
How to Sharpen a Knife at the Correct Angle
Sharpening technique matters, but holding a consistent angle matters even more. Whether you sharpen by hand or with a guided system, these steps help you match your knife’s factory bevel and maintain the correct DPS.
How to Hold the Correct Angle by Hand
Maintaining angle manually is a skill that improves with practice.
1. Visualize the angle
- Start by resting the knife flat on the stone.
- Slowly lift the spine until the existing bevel “lays flat” against the surface.
- That’s the angle you want to keep throughout the stroke.
2. The 45° → half-angle trick
- Hold the knife at a clear 45° angle.
- Cut that in half → ~22°.
- Slightly reduce it again → ~20°.
This gets you close to most pocket and kitchen knives.
3. Use light to moderate pressure
Too much pressure widens the angle and removes excess metal.
4. Sharpen one smooth arc
Sweep from heel to tip in a single motion to contact the full edge.
5. Repeat evenly on both sides
Same number of strokes per side keeps the bevel symmetrical.
Using a Rod or Guided Sharpener
Rod-style and guided systems help maintain the correct angle with less guesswork.
Diamond Rod:
- Best for very dull or damaged edges
- Fast metal removal
- Use a light trailing stroke at your target DPS
Ceramic Rod:
- Ideal for maintaining sharpness
- Very gentle metal removal
- Perfect for touching up the edge angle between full sharpenings
Guided Systems:
Tools like the Lansky QuadSharp or Smith’s Adjustable Sharpener let you select precise angles such as 14°, 16°, 18°, 20°, 22°, or 24° – perfect for matching factory bevels.
Stropping for a Razor Edge
Stropping is the final polishing step that refines your angle and removes microscopic burrs.
- Always use trailing strokes (pulling the knife away from the edge).
- Keep pressure light to avoid rounding the bevel.
- Leather strops with compound produce the sharpest, cleanest edge.
A few passes on a strop can dramatically improve sharpness without changing your knife’s DPS.
Tips:
- Run the blade through the same number of sharpening strokes on EACH side. NEVER do more on one side.
- Personally, I find maintaining the edge with a strop and once every few uses with an ultra fine stone or plate is best, just easier to maintain rather than restore.
- If you have very sharp kitchen knives, some guests who visit may need to be warned about the sharpness of your blades. A sharp knife is a safe knife – but some people still need to be warned.
Knife Sharpening FAQ
Most knives fall between 15° and 22° per side (DPS). Lower angles are sharper, while higher angles are more durable.
Western kitchen knives are typically sharpened at 20° per side, while Japanese kitchen knives are usually 15–16° per side.
Most pocket knives and EDC blades use a 20° per side angle for a balance of sharpness and toughness.
Hunting and outdoor knives perform best at 20–22° DPS, offering a stronger, more durable edge.
DPS stands for degrees per side, the angle applied to one side of the blade. The total or “inclusive” angle is double the DPS.
Yes, lower angles (12–16° DPS) are sharper, but they are also less durable and better suited for slicing tasks, not heavy-duty use.
Stropping removes burrs and polishes the edge, improving sharpness and edge retention. It is recommended after sharpening.
Yes, but it requires removing additional steel to reshape the bevel. If unsure, match the existing factory angle for best results.
A Buck 110 is typically best sharpened by matching the factory bevel. Buck says its knives are generally ground around 13° to 16° per side, so about 15° DPS is a good starting point.
Most Henckels / Zwilling kitchen knives are sharpened at about 15° per side. If you are not sure which model you have, match the existing bevel rather than changing the edge angle.
A fillet knife is usually sharpened at 15° to 16° per side because it is designed for thin, flexible slicing. If the edge rolls too easily, use a slightly higher angle or add a small micro-bevel.
A 15° edge is sharper and better for fine slicing, while a 20° edge is more durable for general kitchen use. For many Western kitchen knives, 20° is a safe choice. For thinner Japanese-style knives, 15° is often better.
DPS means “degrees per side.” A knife sharpened at 20° DPS has a total, or inclusive, edge angle of 40° because both sides of the bevel are counted together.
Diamond & Ceramic Rods
A knife sharpening rod works well because every blade has a different degree of bevel or angle.
The rod allows you to let the edge guide you, while keeping the rest of the knife away from the sharpening device.
A diamond rod is for a knife blade with severe damage or a very dull blade.
The ceramic rod is for “freshening up” a dull-ish blade. I keep one on my bench as well as in the kitchen and field pack.
I use the following knife sharpening rods: (affiliate links)
The Lansky LCD02 is designed to maintain the existing angle on your blade:

→ Lansky Tactical with Diamond Carbide Rod


Sharpening a Knife to a Razor Edge with a Strop
This is the process in “how to sharpen a knife” where you can get your knife RAZOR SHARP!
→ Leather Strop(affiliate)
Here’s my leather strop, clipped onto a screw-eye attached to a wall (or whatever). That way, you can pull it tight while stropping your knife for that razor edge.

This is the last step in the process of sharpening knives.
Stropping is a motion which pulls the cutting edge away from a substrate.
The direction of stropping strokes:
Drag the edge backwards over the strop. In other words, it’s a “trailing stroke” by pulling the knife edge rather than “leading strokes” (as you would with a stone or rod).
Use a light touch and maintain the angle of the knife edge.
Alternate sides with each stroke.
Use Stropping Compound to further enhance results:
→ Extra Fine Buffing Compound(affiliate)
How to Sharpen a Pocket Knife by Hand
Here’s one way.. The basic technique for sharpening kitchen knives and pocket knives is the same as the steps listed above.
Here’s a basic method to sharpen a knife! It works!

Sharpening my pocket knife:
The portable knife sharpener shown in the picture is one that I often use.
It has microscopic diamonds embedded in each of the two sides (one side is finer grit than the other).
→ Double Sided Diafold(affiliate)

Sharpening Technique:
Hold the knife against the sharpening stone at the same angle as the sharpened edge itself. Then push it forward across the sharpening tool while maintaining that same angle.
After sliding the knife across the stone, don’t slide it back up against the stone… Lift the knife and start over from the top of the knife sharpener, sliding it down across its surface again.
More specifically, you should sweep the knife such that you are contacting the entire surface of the blade in one arcing motion down the sharpening tool (therefore sharpening evenly). The longer the blade, the more dramatic the sweep, to get the entire blade in one smooth motion.
You will get into a steady rhythm while practicing. Apply light to moderate pressure.

Maintain The Angle
The key when sharpening by hand (without a jig) is to hold and maintain the knife blade at the proper angle.
To determine that angle, it may help to first rest the knife on the edge of the stone. Look closely at the blade’s sharpened edge. Then adjust the knife’s angle until you see that the sharpened edge sits ‘flat’ against the knife sharpener tool’s surface.
Once you’ve visualized the proper angle, just go with it…
What sharpening angle to use for your pocket knife? Check the list above, and you might find yours. Otherwise, typically the angle for a generic pocket knife is somewhere around 20 degrees.
One trick is to first hold the knife at a 45-degree angle against the sharpening tool (which is easy to visualize) and then adjust the knife to slightly less than half that angle, which will be close to what you want.

[ Read: Your Favorite Small Pocket Knife ]
Keeping your knife at the correct sharpening angle is the key to restoring performance, edge life, and safe, predictable cutting. Whether you sharpen by hand or use an adjustable-angle tool, matching the original factory bevel will always give the best results.
Use the quick-reference chart and manufacturer list above to find the proper DPS for your specific knife, and maintain that angle consistently throughout the sharpening process. With the right technique and the right angle, your knives will stay sharper, longer.
I absolutely appreciate the detail and the research that you put into this. This is an amazing site and amazing information you have here.
The method that I use to duplicate a blade’s angle is to watch the oil. When the oil appears to “squeeze out” or away from the edge, the blade angle matches the sharpening angle. I would appreciate your thoughts.
Fantastic article, Ken!
Has anyone tried using water instead of oil for angle matching on a wet stone?
Ken, what do you think of the, I believe newer ones like wicked edge? Basically my knives r Swiss army and case, thanks.
Ken,
Very glad to see comments back up. Your article should probably be published in a Knife Magazine. Superb information.
I have a Worksharp Professional Precision Adjust knife sharpener. Excellent results. Could be better (upgrade the knife clamp) but at 250 bucks it sharpens the heck out of nearly all pocket knives and most fixed blades.