A bicycle will be a valuable prep asset during a survival or disaster situation when ordinary transportation may be difficult or impossible.
If we are ever to face a societal collapse, times will become tough, to say the least, and modes of transportation may become diversified. Bicycle transportation requires no fuel (except calories and muscle power). A bicycle is obviously faster than walking and could be put to practical use for not only general transportation, but for other things like transporting supplies, security patrol, or simply getting from one place to another more quickly…
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Steve submitted this photo of his survival bike setup (he built the trailer). It has a 14 speed internal geared Rohloff hub, and he has pulled a 600 pound load at 10 mph on flat ground…
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To decide which bicycle is best for survival, there are criteria that you should think about which may influence your decision.
The following is a list of features, considerations and questions, some of which may or may not be relevant to your own needs or situation.
Survival Bicycle List of Considerations
Silent gears – No clicking while coasting (stealth)?
Off-road versus On-road use
Mountain bike?
Hybrid bike?
Beneficial to fit inside of your vehicle or trunk?
Folding frame?
Its design or practical ability to strap on some gear or to transport heavy objects or things
The ability to tow a small utility trailer designed for bicycles
How many gear speeds?
Complexity of components and availability of replacement parts
How light does the frame need to be? Is this particularly important in this use-case?
Strength of frame
Is color important? (stealth?)
The proper frame size for your height and weight
The type of tires (tubeless?)
The more specialized or unique, the less parts you will find post-collapse
Most common brands and parts?
Price? Maybe get two cheaper bikes rather than one more expensive bicycle?
I am not a bike expert or enthusiast, but I do believe it is an important consideration to have a bicycle due to its practicality and usefulness.
I am curious to know your opinion on the subject – please leave a comment.
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Ahhh see I’d not thought of using a bike Id always want to use my own two feet or a vehicle with an engine really, but if I were going to use a bike it would definately be an offroad one, with a retentsion holster center right of the handle bars for quick easy drawing, a rack over the back wheel to strap kit to as well as a puncture repair kit and a spare wheel inc tire.
I bought a used Trek touring bike (1986 Model 620) for $40, and although I hadn’t ridden a Road bike since I was a kid, I quickly realized that if you inflate the tires to the right PSI (VERY High PSI on road bikes; 80-125PSI) then you can FLY on one. I grew up (and live) in FL, where off-road consists of either one of two things; Sugar Sand or Mud. Skinny tires will make you go VERY fast, you’ll also eat $hit if you hit sugar sand. There are few unpaved places in my state where you can peddle a bike, even a mountain bike or beach cruiser with under inflated tires without working harder than you would walking. That means if you’re going off road around here, you’re walking anyways. This isn’t true for everyone, of course, but in a survival situation (Gas at $6+ a gallon) the roads are going to be practically empty, so why not ride a road bike around at 15-25mph on the abandoned streets?
If you’re going to get a survival road or hybrid bike, you should look for the following:
•700cm Wheels. Other styles are obsolete and hard to find.
•Schrader Valves. I prefer Presta Valves, as they seem to work better, but Schrader valves are the near universal standard.
•A rear rack so that you can use Panniers (saddlebags) and a trunk bag. Forward Panniers and handlebar bags, as well as frame bags if you want to get out of dodge with a lot of gear.
•Light weight is better. If you’ve got two nearly identical bikes, and one is Steel, and the other is Aluminum, get the Aluminum. It’s much lighter, will go faster, and will likely out last you, plus it won’t rust. Why carry around all that extra weight when most things that will break your Aluminum frame will destroy your wheels (no wheels, no bike) and possibly break your steel frame as well? Titanium and Carbon Fiber are used on high end racing bikes, and they will probably last a very long time as well, but they will also cost thousands more. The weakest part of your bike is the wheels, and your frame will usually outlast several sets of wheels.
•Gear Speeds are more a personal preference. The most reliable types will be single speed or fixed gear types (since there’s fewer parts) but if you want practicality, you’ll want something with at least three gears (Hill, Flat, Speed) for practicality. More gears means more speed, and the ability to climb steep hills more easily. These choices will have to be based on your local terrain.
•They used to call these “Touring” bikes, but now they call them “Urban” bikes. That Bellville also has generator lights (no batteries) and lots of racks.
•Nearly all bikes can be adapted to haul a trailer.
•Obviously, you want to keep enough spare parts around so that you can completely rebuild the bike if necessary (everything but the frame, realistically.)
•Finally, Disc Brakes. They’ll last longer and they’ll usually stop you faster. These are the new hotness, so there aren’t alot of bikes that have them, and they’re usually VERY expensive. If you get conventional brakes, keep spare brake pads around.
Acually 26 inch wheels are the world standard… Adventure cyclist who travel around the world choose 26inch wheels because they are easier to find…I chose them because they are stronger too…
Steve
Good tips, although I certainly wouldn’t use disc brakes. Rim brakes are way easier to purchase (or scavenge), are way easier to set up and adjust and have fewer parts. All of those are important characteristics for a ‘survival bicycle’ in my opinion.
@Steve,
I’m pretty sure 28 inch are standard for most adult bicycles. In Europe anyway. Over here 26 inch are mainly used on children’s bikes and some MTB’s (although there are more and more MTB’s using 29 inch wheels nowadays).
That’s a valid point regarding disc brakes versus rim brakes… the notion of ‘availability’ in a post-collapse environment. That is a good guideline in all cases and across subject areas. Caveat being of course if one had enough spares to compliment what one already has… due to the opinion that the benefit outweighs the risk. In this particular case (disc brakes vs. rim), I admittedly don’t know enough about the subject to offer all of the arguments for and against. Would be curious to hear more though…
I also think getting a motor set for $125 for the bike is a good idea. They go for miles and assist in the hardest parts of the journey if you have to go a long way. They also only have 1 small electronic price which would be easy to store a spare and protect it from an EMP.
If I wanted to add a bicycle to my kit it would probably be a folding mountain bike of a type similar the the ones Civilian Labs used to sell, The first thing I would fit is Puncture Proof tyres from the Green Tyre company of Middlesbrough England.
Try this one:
https://www.montaguebikes.com
Wal-Mart sells a nice mountain bike for around $150 with alloy everything and front shocks,get 2 at that price and slime for the tires to prevent flats.they have road bikes too.
If you ever buy a bike from a place like Wal Mart or Sams Club you are being sold an over priced piece of crap. Half the time they’re not even assembled right. Even if you don’t break your neck one the first ride because someone who knows nothing about bike mechanics put it together, the thing won’t last more then a year or 2. To get a bike for any reason that’s safe to ride and not a rip off you need to shop at a true bicycle dealer. For what the author of this article is describing the best choice would be to grab something like a Specialized Hardrock 29er.
I got a nice aluminum Kent Del Rio cruiser ($120) from WalMart and have been using it daily. I tricked it out with the money that I saved and ride from town-to-town on it. Planning a bicycle camping trip on it this summer. Hope you’re enjoying your bike as much as I’m enjoying mine.
People are all tending to multi-speed bikes that require maintenance and specific parts and tools, nothing beats the KISS rule – Keep It Simple Stupid!
I have a Shore Freeride MTB and a Flatbar commuter, however upkeep on both of these bikes is something of a specialist job, nothing I would want to do when things go belly up – you cant hump around hydraulic fluid, tools, spares etc thats required for the Shore MTB and the commuter is a lot better in perspective…
I’m selling my flatbar for a fixie (single speed), nothing says absolute minimum than one gear direct drive, nothing can or will ever go wrong – unless your thrown off!! People should really keep in mind that a bike is an exposed machine that the chain itself is a complex machine in its own right and this is the “most” important part of a bike. Without the care and maintenance of a chain the bike is nothing, and keeping a chain straight & as clean as possible aids its longevity.
Keep spares of – 3 x tubes (forget puncture proof tubes!), x 2 puncture resistant kevlar beaded tyres, spare ‘new’ chain & chain breaker, chain lube, tube of lithium grease, light machine oil with PTFE, 2 brake blocks or disc pads, spare gear and brake cables, couple of spokes & nipples, duct tape, lights for your bike & spare batteries, and most important a helmet… Also a small yet concise tool box for an ‘at home’ repair option and a small folding ‘bike orientated’ multi-tool for on the go fixes…
If anyone will have a bike as a reliable form of transport when a major crisis occurs, this is the basics of what you’ll need to succeed with fast reliable human powered transport!
I would go with either a Salsa Fargo: http://salsacycles.com/bikes/fargo_3/ or a Surly Ogre: http://surlybikes.com/bikes/ogre. Both are expedition worthy touring rigs that have Mountain Bike configuring for 29er tires. They have tons of braze-ons for racks and water bottles as well. I would also probably use a small trailer. That’s a ton of weight on the bike, so you’d have to take it slow and carry extra spokes. I would also use airless tires.
My bike in the picture is a Orgre … I had it powder coated with a flat black ruff coat…
Steve
I am currently looking into what type of bike and components would make a good survival vehicle. Just like a car or any other equipment, it’ll probably be necessary to stock pile parts and there are more than one or two “common’ parts. One of the main choices is to go with comfort and the ability to carry a large load or with speed and agility. Would a motor of any type be beneficial or prove to be a rarely used item due to maintenance and parts required to keep it running.
Whatever style of bike one chooses, you can’t be afraid to use it. It’s also important that like firearms, cars, knives, etc., that it fits your requirements and you have the ability to use it well and maintain the item. As far as steel versus aluminum, if you want to easily repair or modify the frame, steel is the way to go. In anycase, there are so many bikes out there and we all have time to choose, collect, and acquire plenty of parts and whole bikes for a time we might have to rely on them for transportation.
In the end, the bikes that work will be the ones you’ll want, but like a rifle, sometimes you have to use what you got or can get your hands on.
One of the original “survival bicycles” is the Swiss Army Bike. The MO-05 served from 1905 until the mid 1990’s according to Wikipedia and other sources I have read. Multigears are nice, but exposed derailuers are easily damaged, go with either a single speed or an internal gear hub drive and figure on pushing when things get steep.
This is like the question of whats the best survival knife, and my answer is always “The one you have when you need to survive.” As an avid rider I will say that a cross or hybrid bike does neither well. I hole heartedly say get a mountain bike!! It’ll do fine on road and is designed for off. I don’t suggest a full suspention (rear shocks) as this will mean more that can go wrong. As for the $150.00 bikes at Wally World they are $150.00 for a reason. Look at a good used one and you’ll be much better served.
For the money you can’t beat the Sun Atlas Cargo Bike outfitted with panniers front and back. There is also room for a couple little children on the back and Xtracycle makes child seats which attach easily. I use one with an electric assist for bursts of speed or long hills and have gone 45+ miles on a single charge. If used only for extreme conditions as an assist to pedaling, you can easily clock 60 miles per day. This bike retails for around $750.00 and is a real work horse only you don’t have to feed it.
As for Walmart bikes…. good luck, I have bought new bikes from WallyWorld that didn’t last the first 25 miles. And you don’t want one of those alloy framesets or carbon fiber. These are for the florescent lycra clad road racers. A survival bike needs to be solid steel, no frills, and have the ability to be welded in the future if need be. The Sun Atlas is rated for a 400 pound payload including the rider.
Quite honestly, just about any bicycle is going to be better than walking. What may be more important is the little things which may make one more useful than others. Light weight is great, but Survival is hard on gear, so I would rate reliability a higher priority. A light frame essentually does one thing for you, makes accelleration, and climbing easier. If your frame snaps, then you no longer have a bike, and it’s useless. Likewise, while multiple gears are desirable, this added complexity comes with multiple possible points of failure. Which isn’t to say don’t pick up a multispeed bike, but keep that in mind when you’re deciding how much of your personal gear to devote to spares. I’m a big fan of multispeed hubs, they’re heavier than cassettes, and derailers, but completely self contained, and therefore less likely to get whacked out of true by random branches, and the like. I would also respectfully suggest wide low pressure tires with liners, thorn resistant tubes, and Slime style automatic sealent. I’ve tested this combination on Barbed Wire, strung across concrete, they held up. Rolling resistance isn’t as much of a concern unless you can bet (your life in this instance) that you will only be riding on pavement. If you’re depending on this as your sole transport, you don’t want to limit yourself to where there are such well maintained roads. You would be safer getting away from civilization, where the biggest threat, other people who are likely to kill you for your bike are the most common. (Or holing up in fortifications, which eliminates the need for transport.) Even if you stick to highways, you’re not going to be camping safely on, or within line of site of the blacktop. Better to have the capability to ride out trails rather than get off, and push, slower than just walking with a backpack. With all this taken into account, my preferance is a 24″ “Cruiser” class BMX (With a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub, because they’re inexpensive, yet reliable.) A solid cromoly frame, ultra simple drivetrain that can be completely replaced with spares you can fit in a small pouch (Front, and rear gears, freewheel, and chain.) with a minimum of tools. And finally, even with racks, panniers, and so fotrh, don’t load it up with more than you can carry on foot (Not counting the extras for the bike.) It won’t last forever, and at the end of the day, you should still hike away from the roads, and trails that can be followed back to you. Ideally, you should be able to haul it up a hill, cliff, or tree with your pack on one end of the line, and the front tire on the other. (This is the most stable way to haul up a bike.) All told, I can put one of these together for less than $300.00s.
For the record, I just completed a survival test of the Sun Atlas Cargo Bike mentioned in the post above and here is where the proverbial rubber hits the road. The cargo bike was loaded up with 6 panniers and a total cargo weight of 130 pounds plus the 50 pounds of bike weight making a total overall weight of 180 pounds. This represented a 4 season tent, sleeping bag/mattress, unleaded gas cooking stove, cooking pots & eating utensils for 3 persons, compass & maps, water filtration pump, 10 liter water bladder, 5 liter water bottles, 9mm pistol, hatchet, hunting knife, Ipad w/GPS, 25 pounds of survival food, clothing, rain gear for both rider & bike, stealth cover to conceal bike while camping, lighting equipment and spare parts for bike. I rode a total of 1000 miles in 15 days from Pensacola Florida across the state to St. Augustine on the Atlantic and then south to Key West. Most of the nights I stealth camped a few hundred feet off the roadway in the trees and was never detected by vehicular or foot traffic. There were no problems with the bike or the outfit and I was able to average close to 70 miles per day (not bad for a 60 year old man who had not been on a bike in years). Upon the completion of the ride, my CONCLUSION is that this sort of bike setup will work well in a survival senario utilizing existing roadways and gravel paths. Two weeks to a month of inexpensive survival food can be hauled on the bike as well as the ability to purify water from questionable sources. IMHO, an average adult rider should be capable of traveling 2000 miles per month while carrying all self-contained survival bug-out gear on the bike. This is not supposition, it is a tried and tested system. This is not the cheapest method of housing/transportation in a crisis but everything is relative…. how much is your life worth? Total cost of this outfit new was just under $3000.00, including tent, sleeping bag, stove, panniers, bike and all items mentioned above. Bottom line… IT WORKS
Love that bike and trailer in the photo. Good idea to add a trailer of some kind to your bike.
As a long time bike traveler, the first thing you should consider, is your own fitness. Stay in shape, ride a bike back and forth to work, bank, grocery shopping, etc. You will be suprised how that helps. Stay away from Wal Mart bikes, they are not worth anything. Go to your local bike shop, and ask questions about what bike will fit your needs. If commuting by bike and storage is a problem, consider a folding bike. Bike Friday, Dahon, and Brompton all put out good quality folding bikes. A survival bike should be a urban, crossover, or mt. bike. that will hold up. By riding your bike you will be saving gas money (today in Ca. $4.27) to purchase more prepping supplies to help you and your family.
Thanks for the recommendations. Your point about staying in shape is more important than many people realize (and often overlooked). I tend to think that being in the best physical shape you can be, is more important than having many preps. If and when TSHTF, your strength (and adaptability) will be of utmost importance.
Getting a bike and then USING it as much as possible will do just that (help you get in shape).
Urban/Crossover sounds like a good all-around model as you mentioned.
How about an adult-sized trike for those of us who, for various reasons, can’t ride a bike?
A trike is a great alternative after things calm down to scavenge items!
No one has yet to mention a a dynomo hub. These are electrical generators built into the hub of the front wheel (some old bikes have them built into the rear wheel of a internally geared three speed as well). Old ones put out up to 6v newer ones up to 12v. There are attachments sold for charging cel phones and GPS mapping devices. They could also easily be used for charging batteries as well.
When they were first introduced in the 1950’s part of the pitch is that they could be used for emergency situations and for power generation in fall out shelters.
I’d also recommend steel MT.bikes (ones from the 1980’s to early 1990’s) without shocks. The shocks will slow you down and decrease your mobility, add weight, and is one more thing that can break. Steel will out last any other material, and is repairable with welding or cold setting (ie bending back). Aluminium once bent is unsafe to ride, carbon fiber if hit in certain ways (like falling over sideways)can crack with little effort. TI would be great but honestly isn’t so much better than steel to justify the cost difference considering old MT bikes go for less $100.00 or even Wally World bikes.
Personally I’ve been thinking of going with an internally geared 8 speed MT bike with drum brakes (steel tire rims with large (36-40)spoke count 650). Dynohub front wheel again with drum brakes, racks both front and back. Modified bike trailer with custom wheels, again with dynohubs laced to them feeding into a small battery array built into the trailer.
The IGH’s and Dynos with Drum brakes are offered by Sturmey Archer, one of the oldest names in bicycling history. Shimano also makes IGH’s and Dyno’s but without the drum brakes.
Well said. Steel is underrated and aluminum overrated.
I didn’t even mention that most AL and CF frames usually have a max load size of just over 200 lbs (including rider). Read the fine print, and though you can overload them for riding on pavement but you’ll be testing the limits of the frame if you go even slightly off road with just a little bit of gear.
And personally when it comes to situations where one might bug out in urban setting a bicycle easily trumps an automobile. While everyone else is stuck in record breaking traffic jams the bike just quietly slips on by, over sidewalks, back alleys, park trails, service roads, on the train tracks….list goes on.
One only need look to the few days after Hurricane Sandy. A simple search of “bicycles and hurricane sandy” easily proves the point.
After recently going through hurricane sandy I can say that aluminum trumps steel. My wife’s bike is shot. Salt water got inside her frame and that’s the end of that. My bike is aluminum and we’ll clean it out with an air compressor and forget about.
In my casa we have been debating the merits of having an electrical motor so to take a brake from the foot pedaling, I look at the prices of these type of bikes and think about what I could afford as far as a solid mountain bike, if everyone I live with had big bucks then the electrical motor bike would be a serious consideration so money being tight its pedal power—I confess I own a folding bike, easy to hump, with 26″ tires on a Montague. It may have too many gears but the disc brakes are excellent.
No-one makes a “survival” bike so we have to look at the closest model of use (use case). This has to be cycle touring: traveling by bike, sometimes for months at a time, carrying all your supplies, stocking up on water and food as necessary. Cycle tourists usually have to be self-reliant, capable of fixing their bikes using tools that they can carry. They need a bicycle that is strong, reliable, fixable and rides well when loaded.
My longest tour was 3 months but many riders circle the globe or travel for years.
The condensed wisdom of tourists is: get a strong, steel frame, wheels that are expertly built, with plenty of spokes a strong rim and some tough, medium sized tires in 26″ or 700c. Fit strong racks and use tough bags. Use gears but be prepared for breakdowns, so have a “graceful degradation” path, ie you can keep going.
Many modern components are built for racing and work OK at the expensive premium end, but trickle down marketing puts these unsuitable designs in cheaper material on midrange bikes. They are not designed to last.
Bikes are also useful as everyday transportation. Today, I hauled a bunch of stuff from the gardening store by bike. Everyday cycling will keep you cycling fit, it will make you stronger and slimmer and will save you money. Work out the saving and don’t underspend on a cheap, toy-store bike.
Dynamo hubs are indeed an excellent addition to any utility or touring bike. Modern dynamo hubs are very efficient and German-made LED lamps make really good use of this power to light up the darkest of roads. You can charge things off a dynamo.
Regarding the tactical use of a bike, I think the best time to leave any city is just before dawn. You can make 20 miles within 2 hrs if you have a good route using minor roads. Many cities have non-car routes that are useful and would be less subject to road blocks or policing. Traveling in a group is safer than solo. You can use wider spacing than walkers, up to 30m, so ambush style intercepts will not work. French peacekeeping soldiers used this kind of spacing in Bosnia.
I’m a young bike nerd, only partially interested in survivalism, but interested none the less. I skimmed/read a little over half of the comments, so hopefully I won’t be redundant, but here are my very thorough considerations, roughly part by part.
MSB Note:
[I’ve moved this comment to its own article post, due to its length and contributory nature to stand on its own…]
10 Considerations For Survival Bike Features
Torker makes nice inexpensive (<$600) steel frame bikes.
The Viet Cong routinely moved loads of 500 lbs cargo by strapping the load to the bike and walking the bike/cargo to its destination. I would rate a bike very high on a list of survival needs. The bike should go in your car incase you need to leave/abandon the car, you can still move a sizable load on foot using the bike.
sigh. I’m a moron. A 15 speed gives you 3 gears on front and 5 on rear.
If you lose one front gear, then that cuts your speed combos to 10 and if you lose another front gear, you are only left with 5 speeds. Similarly, each loss of a rear gear cuts your speed combos by 3.
Don,
For all that I understand your point about the number of gears available with each lost sprocket, I will contend that you’re STILL better off with the 15 speed than with the one-speed. Let’s say that you DO lose a sprocket off the front, and/or one or two in the rear. You still have the remaining gears to help with varying speeds. Whether you need a slow, grinding pace to move uphill, a fast, streaking pace to go downhill, or something in between for riding on the flats, you’re still able to adjust the amount of energy required to pedal the bike. You’re thus able to alter how much energy you must consume.
Granted, being able to use 3 to 5 gears, not 1, probably won’t save your life during a starvation vs not situation, but it likely WILL mean that you place that much stress on your legs.
In a survival situation, anything reasonable you can do that avoids consuming energy seems to me a very good idea.
I have been interested in this subject for 40 years. One thing many people may not have considered is that the weather doesn’t always cooperate when a shit hits the fan moment arises. Two wheel bikes are practically useless during periods of snow and ice and I doubt snow plows will be out keeping the roads clear. I plan on having a three or preferably four wheel bike with electric motor assistance pulling a bike trailer. You can carry most of the gear you’ll need in addition to food supplies. I would also recommend a copy of Cody Lundin’s book When all Hell Breaks Loose. Good luck!
That’s just a matter of what the rider is used to, and what he or she is equipped to handle. I used to commute 30 miles round trip, in all sorts of weather. The only stuff I didn’t ride in was anything that canceled work for the day.
As for the tactical implications of riding a bicycle, I’ve been through some rough neighborhoods on my bike, and thugs have given chase, yelling “Get off the damn bike!”, but usually after I’ve passed them and they have no hope of catching me… and that was without any attempt at stealth on my part. Not exactly a war zone, but even in those… not every thug is a trained marksman.
Bicycles have been put to good use for over a century in wartime and peacetime by militaries, and it would be foolish to turn one’s nose up at such a useful tool merely because it wasn’t armored all to hell and Mall-Ninja approved. When the gas runs out, the armored SUV becomes an immobile sweatbox, and eventually an aboveground tomb.
if your gonna have four wheels it might as well have an engine LOL1
What about an old motorcycle? There are still ones out there that do not have any electronics. Any bike from the 70s on back will do just fine.
“What about an old motorcycle?”
Over the past year, I seriously considered taking training as a motorcycle rider and purchasing one. I had thought it might be good both for easing gasoline bills AND for transport in a SHTF situation. Ultimately, I decided not. I don’t like wearing leather that much, nor the idea of being exposed to weather that much. Additionally, I don’t think I can move as much survival gear with a motorcycle as I can with a minivan.
I DO think though, that having a bicycle WOULD be a good idea. I don’t think it would work so well for bugging out, but it likely WOULD be a good way to “scout out” congested areas. A bike will definitely allow a person to cover MUCH more ground in a short time than walking.
I’ve seen a few comments about how vulnerable a person will be to snipers or other fire-arms holders. All I can really say is this: If I have a firearm–say a semi-auto pistol–I’ll be in a MUCH better situation if I can ride a bike away from danger than otherwise. If I lay down a few “cover shots” in a useful general direction, then ride like hell, I’ll be in a much better spot than if I’m running. ..Obviously, the sooner I can get some kind of barrier between me and a shooter, the better off I’ll be, but again, the speed of a bike will help a lot with that.
Scout out an area, fire a few rounds to keep opposition under cover, then ride the hell out of there. It won’t work very long, but a few moments may make all the difference.
I like transport bikes. the Yuba mundo is my fav. it can carry 400 pounds
The rohloff hub is bullet proof. Once it is installed, all that is recommended is an occasional few ounces of oil, changed yearly. But i met a guy that rides over 10K per year and never changed his oil. At the time he had over 3years onit. If you want gears, go w/ the rohloff. Also, I agree w/ the Ogre as the frame. Again, they have proven themselves to be bullet proof and steel is MUCH easier to weld or bend if needed than aluminium. As far as guns, getcha a flint lock. Just my .02 cents!!
I’d be careful about expecting aluminum frames not to corrode at all. Pure aluminum forms an oxide coating that prevents further oxidation, but it’s a very weak structural material. So, in a bike frame, we usually see an alloy like 6061 or 7075, and these will corrode. We have the same issue with airplanes.
The corrosion shows up in several ways, but the visible “rust” is a white powder rather than red.
No problem with aluminum frames, though. I have about 35,000 miles on my old 2000 Kona Jake the Snake ‘cross bike, including all my Centuries (Hotter’n’Hell 2004 included), and with good maintenance, it still looks nearly new.
In fact, a cyclocross bike might make for a decent dual-sport bugout bike, if you’re planning on a bit of road travel with the ability to dip into the dirt from time to time.
I have used a bicycle for years and I’ve found that a tenaka motor attachment with front and rear baskets gives you most versatility. Evangel bicycles is the narrow profile that allows you to go through tight traffic in my opinion the trailer limits that mobility. I have set up a cargo trailer that is solar powered and can serve as emergency quarters ,I can put the bicycle and if I needed to abandon the rig then I could downsize and continue on . the bicycle is perfect for scouting you can shut off the motor for silent mode and I can ride at night with lights the whole set up was around $2000 and i can ride 30 miles in an hour on a tank. The wire racks fold up also when not in use and a supply run is now practical. Does anybody have any plans for a trailer that would fold in width?
John. Look real close to those folding wire baskets. Next imagine them made of heavier material with a fork-like wheel support on each side. Folded, both wheels still would be on the ground but with a reduced width, such as heading for the store. The opened up and filled on way home. I used to make trailers out of conduit (non-folding) with electrical junction box covers cut for the axle attachments. For a hitch I wrapped a piece of tire sidewall around the seat post with a bolt and thumb nut to hold it together. But I’d bet one could scale up the folding basket basic design for your folding trailer. Good Luck. DD
There is a lot of great information available for any type of bug out bicycle in these posts. I prefer a lot of the same, with the exception of a trailer. Even though one is able to carry a larger load, the manueverability of the bike is limited and one is not able to take to the off road or narrow trails to remain unseen. The U.S. Army has been experimenting with bikes, even to a point of airborn units utilizing them in war zones. The articles that you can find on line show a chart comparing foot to bicycle. An individual can carry 75 pounds and cover a distance of 75 miles @ 10mph, compared to 50-65 lbs at a distance of 45-50 miles distance. I opted for a custom Mountain bike with custom Molle bags. I am capable of mounting my shotgun and extra ammunition in place for a back-up or CQB weapon. Sling your long arm and utilize a drop leg holster for your sidearm with a lightweight harness or plate carrier with everything you may need for a short period of time. This includes 100 ounce camleback and survival gear to sustain you for up to 48 hours. I have used this system for hunting and camping for several seasons and with the minor flaws and bugs worked out of the system, it has served its purpose well. With that said, if you do not use it, and abuse it, how long is it going to work for you. As a former soldier I learned that the dynamics of your equipment in the field can and will keep you alive if you know what it is capable of. If it is not usable or useful in the field, get rid of it…
As a bike nut I do have a few bikes int the quiver. I do have a cyclocross bike and mtb that is equipped with racks and pannier as well as an mtb and mtb fat bike. Likely I will choose either the cyclocross bike or my fully rigid mtb as both bikes have traditional brakes and easy to find (scavenge) parts for. My wife’s bike I had set her up a fully rigid mtb as well with racks.
Recently I had acquired a Bob Ibex trailer to boost carrying capacity or in a pinch have my 4 yr old ride in it too as my other daughter 7 months old can ride in the Chariot sidecar on the other bike. Considering my kids who are not of riding age I am investing in a cargo bike which both of them can ride in the front and gear on the back rack. A local guy custom built them and would go with the portable version so we can put it in the station wagon. I guess addressing the needs of transporting your kids needs to be considered if you have to abandon your car and keep moving with the bikes.
Look back in history what types of bikes have been used in “dire situations”…
Steel Frame, Single speed, but tough bikes. Think about that you might have to transport things without a trailer (pannier rack). A light alloy frame often brakes under normal everyday Transport situations, so a very lightweight “sportsbike” wont be my first choice…..
So go for the classics like “dutch bikes” with upside closed frame, “chinese flying pigeon” old Raleigh “british racer” type bikes, you get the idea…
Some People made 50 000km with cheap hardware-Store type bikes… doest have to be anything fancy but it must get all the maintenance it needs.
Dont wear a Backpack on long tours, just gives you backpain and worsens your balance.
Wheel Size? Europe 28, international 26… but you can avoid most flat tires with modern “kevlar” tires. “Open Tubes” like Gaadi can even be changed without disassembling of the wheels…
Internal gear speeds are way more reliable then derailleur gear, but single speed has its advantages too… military bicycle units like the swiss had single Speed bikes till the 90s… its also more silent.. but unless you have to hide, try to be as visible as possible for other traffic and get good headlights for front and back.
Most bicycle Helmets are completly useless. 300g of styrofoam may prevent smallest cuts but NOTHING else… if you want to wear an helmet take a “climbing” helmet that goes also with industry safety Standards or a motorcycle helmet…
I’ve been reading alot about survival bikes lately. I guess it depends on the are you bugging out or just cruising and being part of a post event community.
Deserthawk, can you post pictures of your rig loaded out? I recently bought a sun atlas and have been sitting and thinking of outfits. Thanks
Ok, I have been reading this thread for a long time today and have seen some avid riders point out some good points and a few newbies asking for advice. I have been working on peddle bikes for over 25 years give or take. I feel I am qualified to insert my two cents here. I lived in Germany in the early 70’s (ARMY BRAT) and in the middle 90’s with the USAF. I have had my own bicycle repair business for over 20 years.
First off, I do believe everyone should own a bicycle as an alternative mode of transportation. However; not just for bugging out! Most folks buy what they can afford and that is fine unless they want it for just an emergency, like doomsday then they need a little better rig!.
Cheap bikes from walmart are fine if that is what you can afford. You are buying the frame and can always upgrade the rest of the bike with better parts at your leisure. Just having an over haul done on it will extend the life of the bike as long as you have it done at a reputable shop. Take the cosomline out put good grease in it and adjust it properly and you will get many more years of good service out of it. Expensive is not always better!
In a post event world depending on what part of the country you are in will determine the type of bike you need. I personally have 8 different bikes set up for different types of rides, street, mountain, gravel, snow etc. etc! Some ridged, front shock only and fullies they all have some type of bag carrying unit depending on the bike. I realize i am an exception but it gives you something to think about. I have several different trailers for the ride at hand. Which is the question what frame and wheels for what scenario. I have read steel, aluminum, cromo, fiber! Here are some facts to think about. Steel is heavy and old school most new bike aren’t steel! Aluminum is light but if you take a spill you can not bend it back it will snap and you are screwed! A Chromoly frame is the way to go! Fiber is lite and expensive and if you wreck your done.
I don’t care what anyone says you will find more 26 inch parts than any other size, the 28-29 is for the folks that have money to spend. 26 inch parts are available everywhere! Rim brakes are a must. Bend a disc or rim you are without breaks but not with rimbrakes, cant’s and v’s can all be adjusted to work but not disc’s!
As far as gears go, any multispeed bike is better than a single speed! Rear cassets might get bent,but you can use a different gear! An internal rear gear hub is done if it goes afoul! Your walking! You can shorten the chain and a few other things to make a chainring work without walking. As far as tires go a good kevler with slime and a thorn tube is your best bet no matter what road your on.
Bottom line is get the best you can afford and unless it is your only way to escape, you don’t need it for anything other than scavenging supplies!
I could go on forever , but whats the point when it happens and it is coming. I hope you are all prepared and stay safe..
As a bicycle nut I do have a couple bicycles int the quiver. I do have a cyclocross bicycle and mtb that is outfitted with racks and pannier and also a mtb and mtb fat bicycle. Likely I will pick either the cyclocross bicycle or my completely unbending mtb as both bicycles have conventional brakes and simple to discover (rummage) parts for. My wife’s bicycle I had set her up a completely inflexible mtb too with racks.
I have used a bicycle for years and I’ve found that a tenaka motor attachment with front and rear baskets gives you most versatility. Evangel bicycles is the narrow profile that allows you to go through tight traffic in my opinion the trailer limits that mobility. I have set up a cargo trailer that is solar powered and can serve as emergency quarters ,I can put the bicycle and if I needed to abandon the rig then I could downsize and continue on .
I have been keen on this subject for a long time. One thing numerous individuals might not have considered is that the climate doesn’t generally chip in when a major trouble becomes unavoidable minute emerges. Two wheel bicycles are for all intents and purposes futile amid times of snow and ice and I uncertainty snow furrows will be out keeping the streets clear. I anticipate having a three or ideally four wheel bicycle with electric engine help pulling a bicycle trailer. You can convey a large portion of the rigging you’ll require notwithstanding sustenance supplies. I would likewise suggest a duplicate of Cody Lundin’s book When all Hell Breaks Loose. Good fortunes!
Here it is, almost Christmas 2015.
I say I have to agree with the person that has had a shop for 20+ years. Cromoly and 26″ wheels if you are in the U.S. You must stick with what is popular for your area. Do you live in the mountains? a fixie (Single speed) may NOT be what you want… after all, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears are great for going up hill as where 10th, and beyond are awesome for flying down off a mountain. Fixies are great for flat landers. San Francisco? Pittsburgh? The Rockies? multi speed bikes (you get the idea) Kansas? Texas? fixies are ok.
I don’t know about europe, or beyond. look at your terrain, and where your destination is. go with what you can afford, and use at least one rack for your bob. If you can’t afford a cart – learn how to possibly build one, there is a wealth of info online to learn how to build them… No one has mentioned a kayak. You could, build a little set of wheels to pull a kayak behind you (If you dare) the kayak can be attached to the seat post. Just dont’ overload the yak… after all – it has its bit of weight. Use two old wheels, and some pvc or other tube to make a little cart for the yak. you can stuff a bit of your goodies in the yak itself… Maybe you will need it to trek over a river, or over a pond/lake or what have you for an out of the way over night stay… out of sight, out of mind. camo that bike, and get back to riding the next day. I have an older 10speed (chromoly) with heavy duty tubes, and slime. Its due for a tune up. I’m glad I came across this tonight. I know what I’m doing after Christmas…. Kevlar, extra brake pads, extra chain etc. Thank you MSB for mentioning the bikes, and giving the link.
Survival Bike. found this 1990s aluminum MTB Trex frame in the local dump. started last fall almost finished soon . I will be adding front and rear fenders a new Brooks leather seat and a Blackburn rifle and bow carry rack and a Ramline GPS bar mounted carrier, and aluminum toe clips with leather straps. I sand blasted the frame used industrial car primer and finished it in Duracoat firearm paint for durability, it took lots of days to finish.I hand picked all the parts NOS stuff from the 1990s sun-tour xc pro grease guard gruppo hubs, axle, crank, and peddles and headset, All came with grease nerts. I used this because of ease of survivability all bearing can be greased in the field or at home.This was discontinued and bought out by Shimono in 1994. I custom built the rims from NOS Mavic 520D downhill rims. DT Swiss Alpine III triple butted spokes and brass nipples. I mounted Stans NO Tubes tubeless 26″X2,25 tires front and rear. Easton extended handle bar and bar ends, front used Rockshock Sid 3.5″ adjustable travel mono shock. derailers are Suntour front and rear 7-8 speed Suntour cesset. Brakes are German made Magura hydrolic front and rear cantilever brakes and custom pads. custom fetures solar rechargeable 3bulb led drive light and a used 6v catseye front rechargeable light. Blackburn outpost front carrgo rack and rear blackburn rack.custom bike bags camo. I also made a rear trailer from a used back pack frame and pvc pipe and parachute cord , 95% of the hardware is titanium and aluminum for weight savings.
Wow – sounds like a great rebuild. Would love to see a picture of it…