Batteries That Don’t Leak Or Corrode | AA – AAA Recommendation

74 Comments

1. Your already off topic cuz…

   1. LOL…. The comedy show continues!

   2. I’m not affiliated with any battery company but I too have been testing this for a couple years now. Over 90% of the time when I found a device that had corroded batteries in it, the batteries were Duracell. I will never buy them again unless they garantee to replace items, or change their batteries. Too many people I know have noticed the same thing as well. I have actually witnessed, along with 3 others…a Duracell 9v basically explode just laying on a work table, nothing touching it. I will use just about any alkaline battery but Duracell because of what I have seen and researched. As for rechargeables, I use EBL. When a favorite device ruins because of the batteries that were in it, people usually remember and then when articles like this are read, it just confirms my owns experiences and research. Thanks for your post!

   3. Regardless of what brand batteries that you use, if they happen to poop all over the contacts in your stuff, a little white vinegar and some Q-tips can work wonders. Try it.

      1. Totally agree….Duracell batteries are garbage.

2. Energizer batteries are definitely one of the best, had been using Duracell batteries and they are OK but will still leak in certain situations.

   I lost 3 real good head lamps because of Kirkland batteries and a really nice fluke meter as well, big mistake, never going to happen again.

   The batteries that I’m sorta waiting to see how they do are my rechargeables, have Tenergy and energizer and a few goal zero batteries, so far none have leaked, but haven’t really pushed them much, so need to be more on it with utilizing the rechargeables and watching performance.

   1. Yeah, I’ve learned the hard way that Kirkland batteries leak a lot, but I’ve had equally lousy luck with Duracell (which I thought *also* offered a guarantee like Energizer). So I’ll try Energizer next, and we’ll see what happens. In a different reply in this thread, I bemoaned the fact that just today I opened up a UST 7 or 10 day (I don’t recall which) only to find 2 cells had leaked quite a bit. But after reading this article, I realize that the UST lanterns don’t have a physical make or break contact on/off switch – it appears that they use an electronic circuit of some sort that senses when you press the on/off switch – hence why the batteries drain. So kudo’s, great information. Thanks :-)

      1. Kirkland = Duracell
         Yeah I’ve had the same problem, Costco’s Store brand batteries “ Kirkland“ Are manufactured for them by Duracell. They have the exact same discharge profile characteristics “they go dead way way before the stated expiration date” and leakage problems. Ruined many devices with Duracell and Duracell made Kirkland batteries. Maybe Sam’s Club sells energizer max in bulk?

3. I took Ken’s advice on the Eneloop batteries a little over a year ago. I bought a portable solar panel, charger, and large electronic battery recharger (it’s like the cell phone USB sticks you can buy, but holds 4X the charge most of them hold). I love the set up. Very portable, and we use Eneloop for all devices in our home. I also keep 4 AA and 4 AAA in all bug out bags. About every 6 months, I gather all of them up and fully charge them. This morning I noticed the 6 in my weather radio were almost dead, so they are on the charger now. The Eneloop have worked very well for us, and I highly recommend them.

   1. Thanks for the real-world report regarding your Eneloop’s and your charger setup. Glad that it’s working out…

   2. @ Chamele0n

      I agree the Eneloop are GREAT, I bought 2- 16 packs of each AA and AAA; they are great and no problems. Solar Charger is the way to go.

      I have some in all sorts of equipment, the most abused is the Indoor/Outdoor sensors for the La Crosse Digital Thermometer, outside Temps here get from -10 to over 100, have not even had to replace or recharge a single setup of the 3 remote sensors.

      They also are working GREAT in the ‘Drive/Personnel’ security sensors, taking the temp changes like a champ.

      Have had no problems with the heavy use stuff like Flashlights, remote controllers and the Drone (great way to fish BTW)

      NRP

      1. I’ve got one of my weather station sensors in a bad spot, gets the morning sun, was 130 here the other morning🙄

         1. @ Nailbanger

            You sure that was not the heat off Kilauea??

            NRP

   3. Thank you 👍👍👍

4. Great information Ken, I definitely have been doing this the wrong way. Thank you.

   1. For my standard AA batteries (other than my eneloop rechargeable’s and my lithium applications) I had been using Duracells. I’ve noticed that they tend to leak now and again… I will be switching to Energizer for those battery applications as my stock runs out.

      1. I switched away from Kirkland years ago to Duracell, but darned if they don’t leak just as often and as badly. I just opened a UST 10-day lantern with AA’s, and 2 of them (Duracells) had leaked all over. I will change course and put the next set of batteries in a bag next to the light. Thanks for the advice.

         1. Kirkland = Duracell
            Same as my comment above. Yeah I’ve had the same problem, Costco’s Store brand batteries “ Kirkland“ Are manufactured for them by Duracell. They have the exact same discharge profile characteristics “they go dead way way before the stated expiration date” and leakage problems. Ruined many devices with Duracell and Duracell made Kirkland batteries. People need to file a class action lawsuit against Duracell for false advertisement and mass property damages. Maybe Sam’s Club sells energizer max in bulk.

5. Every ruined electronic device I’ve had, had one thing in common…. Duracell batteries leaking. I was, at first, angry at myself for not checking the batteries more often, until I had some Duracells start leaking less than 2 months after installation. I use Energizers exclusively now for non-rechargeable use.

   A tip for FRS/GMRS walkie-talkies. Carry alkaline replacement batteries while in the field. Their 1.5v over the 1.2v for rechargeables has more then once increased my transmit range, getting me out of a tight spot.

6. Hey, I found a few places that sell rechargeables in almost any size, just google it, you’ll find em, been meaning to order some but been either broke or forgetful, or both.

7. If you are using them in pairs in flashlights, check and see if an 18650 lithium ion battery will fit. It is slightly larger in diameter than the 123’s, but the mAH rating is way higher, about four or five times what two 123’s have. Good brands are Ultrafire and the Orbtronic (made by Panasonic). Be careful where you buy them though…the Ultrafire 3000 mAH are the most cost efficient but some retailers sell fakes. The base of the battery will have Ultrafire printed on it if they are the real deal! Another option is the Fenix brand, but a little pricier. The rechargeable 123’s have a very low amount of power available, so might not be a good option unless you have low drain devices. The primary (non-rechargeable) batteries might be a better option in that case if only 123’s will work. When buying them in bulk, there are suppliers out there (If Ken will let me say it, BatteryJunction.com) has them for a little over a dollar apiece in quantity purchases.. Hope this helps!

8. I also use Energizer Ultimate Lithium Batteries for my mission critical devices. I learned the hard way to avoid standard (common/everyday) batteries for long term storage of equipment. Over time the standard batteries leaked and ruined the connectors on several items of equipment. Now I know…

9. Add little pieces of kleenex or toilet paper around the battery terminals at both ends, in case it leaks, so the paper absorbs the acid and does not reach the circuit board, ruining your clock, radio, camera, or anything that uses batteries. Push paper into place with a toothpick. I have been doing this for 20 years. Always remove batteries when not in use.

10. Has anyone had any problem…. With the Duracell Ultra the ones with the red on end?

11. Rhondalynn,

    I just went to the shop and measured both the Duracell and Energizer AA batteries with my digital calipers.

    Duracell AA
    Diameter: 0.555 inches
    Length 1.98 inches

    Energizer AA
    Diameter: 0.555 inches
    Length: 1.97 inches

    Not sure what you’re experiencing, but they’re identical dimensions in my experience.

12. Duracells are a total waste of your money. I’ve had more police/personal gear destroyed by them to the point where I wouldn’t use them even if they were free. Because in the end they will destroy whatever you use them in. I despise their sorry products.

13. No, they won’t. If the battery is expired, you’re out of luck with them and they will be happy to tell you so. Hell will freeze over before I ever buy another Rayovac battery.

    1. Agree. Once I had Rayovacs leak, mailed the flashlight to them as instructed, and it was returned to me by the post office undelivered. I find store brands which cost half the price of major brands seem to work just as well (and leak about the same).

14. 100000% agree. Every single thing I’ve used them in gas leaked at one point or another. I just threw out 4 packs of 48 count AA & AAA garbage. Absolute junk

15. In 2018 I bought a 6 pack of AA energizer ultimate lithium batteries for my DVD player remote, it is now 2020, that’s nearly 2 years they’ve been installed in my remote and haven’t leaked yet. Then several months ago I bought the triple A size for my tv remote, they’ve been in for several months and no issues with them leaking… yet, they’re made in Singapore which I heard is a issue to some people.

16. Also I was using the energizer max powerseal alkaline batteries for my tv remote, but I’ve read about complaints of them leaking sometimes… eventually, so I switched to the ultimate lithiums. Well, I don’t care what alkaline batteries you use they ALL will leak eventually no matter what they claim on the package.

    1. Jon L.,
       I made the switch to Energizer Max, many years ago. So far, I have not had a single one leak. None. Unlike Duracell, which would almost guarantee a leak after awhile.

       1. Energizer lithium for leak free. Got them in my weather sensors. 30 degrees to 115 degrees year round swings and zero issues.

17. I did too but since switched to the ultimate lithiums. Also on their site this powerseal technology is only applied to the AA size not the AAA… I think.

18. I just found a flashlight that I bought about 20 years ago that had been stored in a backpack side pocket kept in a climate controlled environment this whole time, completely forgotten with the original batteries installed. I just knew it was ruined, but when I turned it on, it still worked. The batteries were Duracell DL2/3A Lithium batteries Made in the USA. So they do know how to make good batteries.

    Lately I have had such consistent problems with Duracell alkaline batteries that I’m completely done with them. Duracell used to be the best and now they’re garbage. While Energizer does seem a bit better, I just had some Energizer Max AAA batteries with an expiration date of 2028 leak after being installed in a headlamp for only one year.

    1. Key to that statement is Made In USA.

19. Fred, sorry to hear that. This article is about Energizer MAX Alkaline batteries and their claims thereof. So far I have never had a leak… knock on wood. I also utilize Energizer Lithium batteries for my outdoor situations (it gets cold here in the winter, and Lithium batteries perform WAY BETTER in cold temps than alkaline). They have never leaked (again, knock on wood).

20. Eric, That’s no BS.
    My Energizer “MAX” batteries have never leaked. When I used to buy Duracells, they would sometimes leak.

21. I have had bad luck with Duracell. Two years ago, they leaked and ruined a $50 flashlight. I did call Duracell, and they sent me a check for that and they wanted their old batteries back, which I gladly gave them. In the last 2 years, I have bought Duracell AA batteries and they don’t even last 6 months in a digital wall clock. I am done with Duracell. They have a quality control problem.

22. I have a 3 cell D flashlight from Maglite. I have had 3 batteries made by Energizer in for about 18 years. Flashlight still works with absolutely no leaks. Batteries are made cheaper these days. I have also removed all my Duracell batteries from all my devices and replaced them with Energizers. Wish me luck on this one based on the stories read and my 18 year old batteries by Energizer

    1. My old Mag light was ruined by yep,, Duracells

       1. Lost a couple of Mag Lights to Duracell batteries. Sooner or later, they corrode and you can’t get them out.

23. Any experience with the black eneloop pro batteries? We have the regular eneloops and I’m looking to buy some more. Is the cost difference justifiable?

    1. California (Adam),

       Haven’t had any experience with the “new and improved” Eneloops….but ….if you are happy with the originals, me personally, I would stick with those….you know for sure what you’re getting for your money

       1. Thanks Dennis! Any issues keeping them all stored 100% ? I know my car battery likes to be between 20-80% (lithium)

          1. Adam…..I just rotate my stocked batteries after charging 100%,no issues on standard eneloops.

    2. Have used the white Eneloops for years, and decided a while back to try the black ones. They have a higher rated mAH rating, but there is a catch.The insulator in the battery is thinner, and they appear to self discharge faster. In addition, the cost/benefit ratio makes them not as good a buy as the white ones. Still using some of the white ones from 2013 and they are doing fine…

       1. Jon dowe
          interesting on the eneloops, i recently bought packs of both types to try, am tired of losing electronic devices to leaky batteries.

    3. New and improved to me usually means something just got cheaper to make!

       1. Mrs U
          and most likely not as good!

24. For battery storage containers I’ve been using the following:

    -Malamute Rugged AA and AAA Battery Cases.
    -MTM (ammo boxes) case-gard 50 for AA and J-20 for AAA.
    -Thyrm CellVault Battery Storage 

25. If your application uses 1.2 volt and it isnt freezing Ive never beat NiMh eneloops. Only thing here that wont use a 1.2 volt battery is the smoke detector.

    Never had one leak.Ive been using them since they came out and only had a couple/three maybe that have stopped taking a charge in that entire time,we have dozens in AA and AAA.

    I use a lacrosse BC-700 smart charger,and have a Brunton folding solar charger and recommend these items highly.Excellent in LED flashlights and lamps,remotes,cameras and wireless mice and keyboards.

    They also have a very flat discharge curve so your item functions well right up until the end where voltage falls off quickly.

    For bang for the buck I know of nothing that will beat them,though of course maybe there are,IDK,I just know these are exceptional value over time.Used a few energizers no leaks but they definitely go bad,not a long lived item at all compared to eneloops at our place.

    I LOVE those things,can you tell? Never seen anything like em.

    Oh,I also keep some lithiums taped to a few devices that need long term storage and are mission critical.Like the sony transistor radios I keep in the vehicles.

26. i quit buying duracell years ago. they kept leaking in my mag lights etc and damaging them. i now buy everready and no problem with them leaking.

27. WhatEVER you do, DON’T buy RAY-O-VAC! Those things leak IN THE PACKAGE! I’ve had Duracells ruin stuff as well.

    I’m giving Amazon’s “store brand” a try now.

    …There was a time when NONE of the alkaline batteries leaked. It would be nice to get to that place…

    1. Tom,are you using the supposed eneloop amazon branded batteries? I never tried them as I know the eneloops flat out work so didnt try to save a few bucks but would like to hear from folks who have.

    2. most my stock is ray o vac.
       I toss more than I use due to leaks lately.
       got a few energizer AA rechargeable, they work well 2300mah
       with (quality) rechargeable’s higher mah = milliampere hour is better than lower always.
       gonna get more energizer lithium soon.

       used to love duracell, not anymore.

       1. I have a few rayovac industrial D non alkaline *unused* and loosing power at around 1.04v only about 3 years old.
          (made in china)
          I have several decade old D EverReady industrial, non alkaline at 1.49v
          (made in USA) these came out of 3 different radiation detectors- all yellow civil defense.

          These max things aren’t too expensive, I”ll try them.
          Put some in storage for a couple years too and see for myself.

          Price aside, EverReady lithium are my new favorite for long life and very long storage life.

    3. They SUCK!!

    4. same experience

28. After reading all this, went and checked my battery drawer, got several packs of energizers, all looked good, had one pack of aa Duracell 16 pack, don’t remember how long I had them but most of them were leaking and all corroded top and bottom, new pack never been opened, there were a few that looked ok but I just chunked the whole thing in the trash, last Duracell’s I ever buy, glad I don’t have them in anything

    1. David, rcb
       i cant even list how many flashlights, headlamps, lanterns, radios, etc etc etc that i have had damaged by duracells,,,
       i wont use them

29. Just threw out a bunch of energizer batteries still in the package. Haven’t the time or inspiration to send back.
    Last time I sent back a NICE flashlight with leaking battery, I got a generic energizer flashlight back.
    Had similar luck with Duracell and Energizer.
    Both “meh”…

    1. Regarding your Energizer batteries: It’s the “MAX” version that don’t (shouldn’t) leak. There are ‘non-Max’ batteries which I avoid (just like I avoid Duracell’s these days).

30. Thanks Ken, these articles on batteries are my reminders to periodically check the batteries within my flashlights and head lamps. Now that days are short and dark, I use my flashlights a lot more and the temperature extremes tend to promote batteries going bad quickly. (Warm inside to cold outside.)

    I also use battery powered alarm clocks so these batteries get checked as well. My wife still uses a clock radio but the ready availability of battery powered alarm clocks in my small town store was an indicator that power can be spotty during the long, cold winters here. A small local pharmacy carries lots of home furnishings, flashlights and battery powered alarm clocks – As a new arrival in town, I took this as a sign and prepared for frequent power outages back then.

    I came to Northern Oregon from Southern California over 10 years ago so it may sound weird to call my climate cold in the winter compared to others here posting from Idaho or Montana. At least I was smart enough to keep my mouth shut and observe what the locals do and purchase.

31. I just replaced a 4D cell Maglite flashlight for $40.00. Problem was leaking/swollen Duracell batteries I couldn’t get out of the tube after several days of effort. No more Duracells for me.

    1. Don,
       Have had the same thing happen to me, Try pouring lemon juice into your Maglite, it should desolve the deposits. I was able to resurrect one of my flashlights this way.

32. Thank you for this website.

    This confirms my suspicion of Duracell that I used to buy at Costco. All those wasted batteries after a month or two of purchasing from Costco. I didn’t want to return to Costco. And it was frustrating about all the equipment damaged by Duracell batteries.

    In the ’70s and ’80s, I remember Duracell batteries were more reliable. Compared to Duracell batteries since the 2010s. They always leaked, despite their warranty and guarantee date.

    Even though they’re more expensive, since I don’t use batteries that often, I plan on switching to Energizer Ultimate Lithium since it seems the Lithium batteries are more reliable.

    Thanks to everyone for all the suggestion on trying to recover equipment.

33. The same company manufactures Energizer, Ray-O-Vac , Varta , and Eveready brand name batteries. They are better than Duracell and Costco’s Kirkland batteries by a lot but they leak too. I am referring to Alkaline batteries. Have never had a Ni-Mh battery leak but depending on the make, shelf life varies greatly. I use them in camera flash units and they work well but I keep a spare set or two because the power drops off quickly. Like everyone else, I am getting tired of throwing away equipment because batteries leaked, many times within months of being installed new. Going to move to lithium for equipment that I need to keep batteries in with little or no use over periods of time, like emergency flashlights, etc.

34. Was just searcing Ray O Vac Leaking Batteries because Home Depot has them for sale again for Black Friday.
    I just wanted to see if others had problems over the past 5-6 years and if the problems had been corrected.
    I have no idea why I would even consider Ray O Vac again except to “save” money, but did I considering the damgage they have caused me in the past? Nope, and would not buy again, I just wanted to see what was going on with these once reputable and dependable batteries.
    Just thinking quickly of devices Ray O Vac AA batteries leaking have destroyed for me personally the past couple years:
    -Sanyo TV Remote … little used remote that had a pair of Ray O Vacs in it. Needed the remote to program the TV and nothing worked. Opened it up and both batteries had leaked and literally destroyed the circuit board.
    I never did get it working again after multiple attempts to clean it up. Had to buy a used remote on Ebay.
    -Craftsman Multi-Meter… Use my multimeter half a dozen times a year, one of the better meters that can test Capacitors which I need. Same deal only this time with Ray-O-Vac AAA batteries. I was finally able to get the meter working again but took a number of cleaning efforts using Deoxit, etc.
    -La Crosse Weather Station— this time it was the outside Transmitter, which is always working, so it could not be blamed on an item that mostly sits unused. Noticed that the indoor La Crosse display was no longer showing the outside temperature correctly. I thought… what’s going on, as I always change the batteries during Daylight Saving Time changeovers. Same deal.. the insideof the transmitter was copletely destroyed do to the leaking Ray O Vac AA.
    I recently threw away every Ray O Vac spare AA and AAA battery I had, not matter what the date was on the battery or how well they tested. Just thought I would add my experience to the comments.

35. I have found that household batteries, mainly alkaline cells, leak a lot more than they used to – say 20 years ago. I recollect that batteries used to stop functioning before leaking. You pretty much had to ignore them for a long time. Not any more. I have used batteries in remotes and other devices and they are working real well for a while, then start to get flaky but still work. By the time they stop working altogether, they have already leaked. It has happened with various brands that I have tried. My last AA (or maybe AAA) battery purchase (I think it was Ray-o-vac, because I had gotten disgusted with Duracells leaking so much) actually leaked while still in the packaging and their expiration date was still 8 years away.
    They all seem to be made in China, as are nearly all the devices we use them in. The leaking batery situation is convenient for China because we then need to buy new products that have been ruined by leaking.
    Does anyone have any particular thoughts on this.

    1. Rock Rib,
       My thoughts…
       Nearly everything has gotten ‘cheap’ these days. It became obvious to me, years ago, that Duracell (as one example) had changed something – which has resulted in leakage. That said, and as I said up in the article, Energizer MAX (so far) have not leaked for me. I use them exclusively. I also use some lithium batteries depending on application.

36. But.. eh.
    I bought a unique battery powered double light reading lamp yesterday at good will, $3
    It takes three AAA batteries.
    It still lit up but dim.
    The left and right batteries checked at 1.45v, the middle was dead and leaking badly.
    These energizer max expired on 12/24.

    So they do leak, nothing always works 100% and it’s the first leaker I have seen but I haven’t used mant so far.

37. There are also rechargeable 1.5V lithium batteries like Tenavolts and EBL (and others). They have about 2/3 the capacity of alkaline, but will work in equipment that won’t work with 1.2V NiMH batteries like Eneloop…and they don’t leak.

    Thanks for the article. I too am done with Duracell, Kirkland, and Rayovac alkaline batteries; the ruined equipment is too costly. I just threw out half a box of Rayovac AA premium alkaline batteries (60/box)…Nov 2026 date code; the batteries had never been used and were all leaking.

38. PK Cell “Ultra Alkaline” batteries have never let me down in any size.

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